My moment of madness with an MGB-GT

At the ready

2012-01-22T09:36:00.002Z

Sorry for not posting sooner. Its the longest I've gone without an update or progress report. An educated meander at previous years post's sees the same thing. Its the weather y'know.
I think I've changed my wish list from

# 1      Garage

to

#1     Heated Garage

Fortunately this year so far has not seen any snow, however there has been Wind, lots of it. I must have been to re-arrange the mishmash of poly covers on the car several times a day but now I've given up. Its waterproof ( I think) and enjoys flapping aimlessly and making an annoying flappy noise with each gust.

So what are the plans for the MG then ?
Since I now have a job, but haven't started yet, real progress is at least 3 months away when paid, debts and x-mas paid off and finances back on track.
I did purchase a pair of rear axle/hub oil seals early Dec which were going cheap on e-bay but not fitted them yet. The main reason being my lack of 1"5/16 socket for the rear wheel nut. Why did BL make the front and rear different sizes ?. Several trawls round my local Thursday flea market ( always good for second hand tools and old engineering stuff) has proved fruitless.So no progress on the seal replacement. Apart from which as I said earlier, the weathers been crap. I also have ( by way of x-mas prezzie from wifey) a pair of front bumper Irons ( yes...e-bay again, bargain at £5) to fit.

Enough chitter chatter, here's a list of the jobs to do, not necessarily in this order.

1/.   Re-fit oil cooler hose and route/ fix permanently (or as permanent enough to stop another disaster)

2/.   Flush Radiator and heater to cure running hot issue

3/.   Top up with oil and water

4/.   Fill clutch reservoir and bleed

5/.   Replace front brake cylinders and seals, buy pads/pins/ fluid, fit and test.

6/.   Get to bottom of why filling stations air lines valve connector won't fill my tyres/valve.

7/.   Buy 1"5/16 socket...........Maybe. Then replace rear oil seals

8/. Remove rear back plate and refurbish brake cylinder with new seal kit/s

9/.   Run engine and check engine hot running/water oil mixing in rocker box.

10/.   Fill brake system, bleed and test ..see 6/. ( methinks scary grinder had "dabbed" valve !!)

11/.   Finish bodywork and fit interior

12/.   Re-spray, MOT, Insure and off I go

O.K maybe 11/. and 12/. may have been simplified somewhat (yes... a lot) but 1/. to 10/. is enough to see me through till early summer, if the weather is dry and wind free. A very big if for UK residents.
If things go well work wise and I can get a grip with the bodywork fiddly bits then maybe just maybe this year will see the car on the road and finished ( Is it ever "finished" ?)

Oh and just as a passing note, totally unrelated, here's me graduating last week. Just to prove I do finish some things.

Whilst its quiet

2011-11-30T15:08:00.000Z

Yes. I know I've had an annoying little issue with the MG ring hijacking my site, but I think I've cured it now.
So, since no-one has made any comments for ages a few words of encouragement would not go amiss, so please add comments just to let me know there are people out there in cyberspace reading. Donations of hard cash are also gratefully accepted, after all the kids need new shoes.

spring thing and more work

2011-11-08T11:58:00.001Z

Well, the front suspension is finally finished, discs purchased and fitted and the car lowered to the ground at long last.
The fitting of the disc was easier than I thought. I did have reservations regarding the hub to disc bolts. They were a swine to remove. I had to drill the bolts out since the back face did not allow for a spanner or my socket access. In the end I found a long forgotten box spanner of 14 mm that did the job just fine with accompanying 1/2" socket.
Also the oil seal to hub was tricky to remove but replaced with a brand new pair, using a nice new flat section of 1" x 3"x 6" timber, liberal grease and lump hammer.

The only blot on the landscape was the final ride height. It looks too high, even thought I've replaced the spring with one over 1-1/2" shorter.
Also, since the two wheels/tyres had been used as makeweights for the car cover, when fitted and lowered back to earth one was flat as a fart.
That's when the faffing started.
I visited three filling stations ( all with the same type of inflator) only to find out the business end of the inflator does not fit my valve. Strange that, since I've inflated them before ( albeit years ago) and did not have an Issue.
The economy run continues so I've decided to replace only one brake cylinder but both side's caliper seals in full, re-use the existing hoses and buy standard pads,clips and re-use the rear brake shoes.
I've even fitted the bump strap bolts since I can now jack up the rear end.

Son also helped me push the car to turn it round on the drive ( again).
After inspecting the RH rear hub/back plate I discovered the back plate was slightly oily/cruddy and some slight play in the drive/hub/spline. I'll do what I normally do for this rather expensive repair, Ignore it for now. At the least it is just pinion crown wheel spacer wear and worse half shaft spline wear with weeping oil seal. Thank god for the wonderful John Twist of University motors. I urge you all to visit youtube to see his wisdom and educational dedication to the marque for would be restorers.

So next on the list is more sanding (wether [ and weather] permitting) since I should buy the caliper and pads plus fluid ,but that looks like its going to be a Christmas present due to some ongoing financial embarrassment ( No job as of yet).

Above is the RH hub. Sorry as it a little blurred ( I was cold, wet and fed up )

The romance of sandpaper and filler is over

2011-10-09T14:30:00.002+01:00

How long did it last you ask. Well not very long. A few years ago when I started I managed to fill and sand the odd "ding" around the car. This was very satisfying and I was in love instantly. A few deft and lingering strokes from the plastic spatula, some gentle stroking of the lovely curves with 80 grit and a gentle caress of 120 grit left my heart and spirits leaping with joy. How wonderful the world is.

Next up was the welding of new lower sections to the front wings. It needed a lot of filler and even more sanding. It needed several " attempts" to get a smooth curve. I got a little tired and it was beginning to be hard work, if not difficult. To keep things moving I looked elsewhere ( engine bay) and I began to feel a little guilty leaving the filler and sandpaper forlorn in the boot space. At least they were with all their other friends like " Red Lead", "Stopper Filler" and "Cork sanding Block". After what seemed ages I was ready to renew the romance. But alas filler had become cold and hard with time and 80 grit was torn, wrinkly and in shreds. I was skint and unable to frequent the haunts of similar acquaintances for a long time ( Halfords).

It was mid summer some years later when a breeze of opportunity ( some spare shifts in pub) came along we had the opportunity to become very familiar again. But where could we be together, alone and doing what were were made for. The Front Lower Valance of course. This was an Item long forgotten and abandoned in the depths of the shed, ignored and replaced in my dreams, head and heart by a ST spoiler.
How fortunate fate can be. Just when I was at my lowest ebb and resigned to re-using as many original as possible parts ( due to being unemployed ) we became entwined once more.

After several coatings of filler in strategic areas and sanding with 80 grit I again became a little weary of the elbow and wrist work required to be well satisfied. I again looked elsewhere. The RH door skin was the obvious choice. Coated in a heavy layer of "Red lead" with a dusting of primer, it had been in my vision every time I lifted the car cover. I always thought it would be a big ask to get it something like ready for final paint prep but the challenge was there let alone serious temptation ! what else can a man do ? So I did .

Here it is just after starting

A close up will show that the red lead looks like it had been applied with a very stiff bristle brush. This outlandish sight ( done by me years ago in the first flush of Restoration youth) is what had been teasing me for years almost saying " come on and tackle me if yer dare, I'm deep and streaky and cover a huge curved area". The grey primer acting as a guide coat, it took ages and ages. Almost 2 hours in fact and my shoulder was aching, fingers were sore and hands stiff.
Look done ! I was well spent though and I'm sure I heard the door ask me what I was thinking !

Just about 90% of the red lead had to be removed. What was I thinking all those years ago. Still it had been protected from the ravages of the dreaded tin worm and needed very little filler. The romance was already fading for the filler at least and the sandpaper and I needed a break too !.

We (The front Valance and I ) were all re-united through a rather unwelcome but now oft frequent bout of skintness and restlessness.The door had to be left abused and part naked due to the fact I had only a little grey primer (and no money to buy more) the hammerite KuRust was almost all gone but lasted to serve one more time.

The Valance, originally abandoned due to many small but heavy impacts low down and lots of rust patches deeply ingrained. Fortunately I did give it a coating of heavy grey primer all those years ago, but oh the filling and sanding. I so far have had about 5 attempts of filling and sanding and its still not perfect. I don't want perfection I just want it all to end because I'm thoroughly fed up with it all. And the romance is dead in its tracks..........for now at least.

I could not even be bothered to take a photo. Maybe I will next time..if I can afford some primer.

Taps, dies and poverty

2011-10-02T17:43:00.000+01:00

Well. we'll start with the poverty bit first.
Since I've qualified as a Radiographer, guess what ? there's bugger all jobs about. So the household is really living on reduced means, Heinz beans, shouts and screams and shattered dreams. So the MG fund is at minus lots and lots. The front suspension is assembled and waiting for cash to buy split pins ( of the correct size MGOC !!!) Two new pistons for the brake calipers, seal kit for both calipers, pads, pins and brake disc+ bolts/nuts, inner bearing seals, shim kit and brake/clutch fluid.
The fund is so low that I'm going to have to re-use the rear brake shoes I removed years ago ( still plenty of material on them though) and not replace the rear brake adjuster/cylinder, just clean up and re-fit. That should see the car back on four wheels and mobile-ish !

See the suspension looking new and wanton for discs and wheels.

Taps and dies bit I referred to relates to the front wings where they attach to the bonnet gutter, front valance and inner footwell mountings. The front valance mounting points on both wings is a mish mash of removed bolts ( leaving perfect but rusty 1/4" UNF tapped holes) large 3/8" hole where captive nuts have been ground away ( done years ago in deep mid-winter ) and broken 1/4" UNF bolt stuck in-situ ( I must have given up or got too cold and frustrated). Either way ,not having any cash and plenty of time I decided to tackle the RH wing first as its not attached properly ( One bonnet gutter bolt and a mole grip on the front sill). A wander into town on market day, Thursday, saw me trawling the flea market for the tools stalls. Normally they sell all manner of cheap imported crap tools, however I use them lots and know where to go to get the oft used/broke last time type of things like 1/8" dia drills ( 5 for a £1) flappy grinding wheels (£1.50) and 5 sizes of boxed mm drills ( also £1). They had taps and dies too... all new and metric and expensive for me.
I knew that there are other stalls offering used engineering tools like micrometers, wood turning chisels (lots) vices, planes, end mills and other stuff generally that belonged to some long dead proud engineer. Trouble is its all usually rusty, very rusty. But I knew there would be taps and dies on at least two stalls somewhere. I just had to root around amongst the masses of other "stuff ". "Stuff" being what I don't want. Myriads of 1/4" BSW taps and dies. Same for 3/8" BSW and UNC for that matter. I must have spent a whole hour rooting in rusty boxes and trying to read long since stamped ID markers or "etched" markers ( even harder).
Persistence paid off and I think I got the only 1/4" and 5/16" UNF taps in the entire country. I also got the dies too ! for a grand total of £ 4 ( from two different stalls though ). A good day was had as I usually spent a full ten minutes with wifey looking round the market Thursdays.
These purchases allowed me to open up the RH bonnet gutter threads ( 5/16" UNF ) and with some really expert drilling remove the three broken 1/4" UNF bolts at the lower valence. I also did the four inner footwell mounting holes and the two wing top/scuttle threads.

Before I forget, above is a photo of the front slam panel with both in primer, promised from last entry.

Below is a close up of the slight "oversight" I had with the oil cooler pipe meeting and getting intimate with the alternator fan,

When I get fed up with bodywork I'll re-fit the old hose which was in fairly good nick as it came attached to the oil coller which I bought on E-bay three years ago. I'm gald I saved it now.

Since I'd got the wing at least ready to be fitted I had to dug out the wing attaching bolts from the shed. I was going to buy a new set like I did for the LH side from the MGOC, but I remember the lower sill bolts not being long enough, or at least a struggle to get the nut and washer on the back so I only fitted two.
Strangely enough I found the wing bolts first time and bagged up and labelled ( for both sides).
So 3 hours later I'd ran the die down the gutter bolts, cleaned up the washers and split washers and was ready to do a test fit.

One major issue was that of the RH door, or where the door and wing rear edge meet. Every time I opened the door it caught on the wing roughly in the middle of the edge. It had done it since I re-skinned the door ( another purchase from E-bay) and bearing in mind I'd also welded a repair panel to the base of the wing I expected major alignment issues. I still have alignment issues. The base of the door is outwards a little particularly towards its rear lower edge.
But what i did do was fit the fiddly under scuttle bolt to wing to get an idea of how much to trim the wing rear edge.

See. I'm dead chuffed with it. The gap is nice and even. Still need filler on the mid wing section where the weld is though. But not bad for a beginner and it cost next to nothing to do, only time and a little frustration. I have to do the LH wing too but thats a longer job as all the (new) bolts are in and have been sice I fitted it a few years ago.

I also fettled the top scuttle a little. This must be the 7th attempt at filling, sanding and primer done long long ago. If left long enough you can attack it with new vim and vigour. Its just what i did.
Must go now as Sunday tea is almost ready and a wine bottle is calling.

More progress

2011-09-01T19:37:00.000+01:00

Since I'm now officially qualified ( almost, but as yet jobless) I've got a little spare time and a small amount of cash so I tackled the front suspension rebuild.
Last week saw me drive to Mechspec to get the suspension bushes and new oil pipe to complete the long drawn out overhaul.
Trouble was a few days later when I'd set the day aside to do the job I was several small items missing.
Namely the lower fulcrum rubber bush/washer set and two low profile castellated nuts and misc split pins.
A quick call to the MGOC and more parts ordered.
They arrived the following day and the job was back on. It took all day and not without frustration.
Firstly the extra bits from MGOC ( split pins and castellated nuts) were too big. I should day the nuts were too long and the split pins too bigger a diameter. What a balls ache I had to undergo before reaching this conclusion. Lots of hard and tedious spannering in awkward positions on the hard and uneven floor. Come 7pm-ish I was shattered, arms,shoulders and knees all aching. Twas then I discovered a strange fact. The RH stub axle was different from the left ?? Where was the lower grease nipple or hole ?
I had found an excellent You-tube video from Brewer58 showing how the jobs done and which way round to assemble the lower fulcrum bushes/washers. He did say in his vid the earlier done RH side had been done incorrectly whilst showing how its done on the LH side, and he'd have to re-do the RH side which meant jacking up the spring pan, removing fulcrum pins etc.
Well guess what, after some checking and mild panic re said stub axle I found I'd assembled the RH side with the top and bottom fulcrums inwards not outward ( or out and not in, forgot now) !!!
So, with tired arms and legs, and fading light I had to do the same. However I managed it in double quick time and did not have to separate too much, I even left the steering ball joint attached.
Initially I was very apprehensive since it meant jacking up the A arm with spring in and lots of potential energy waiting to go "ping" when the jack collapsed or slipped. But it was a doddle with the jack correctly placed and sandwiched with a block of wood.

The following morning I set too aligning the nuts and split pin holes I'd left the night before and turned my attention to the engine and oil pipe gauge/engine connection. This again was relatively easy with access a little restricted but job done.
That meant I could fire up the engine....Yay !!!

Faffed around with the lower water hose as there seemed to be a slight leak ( cured by cutting 5mm off the end of the hose at radiator end) It now seats correctly but is still very close to the steering rack mounting bolt end.
Filled up with water, checked oil level, then panic !!
The oil cooler hoses were not routed properly and oil cooler resting on the side firewall.
So, after some oil spillages from said hoses it was all ready to roll.

Connected jump leads to Renault and after about 1 minute....couch, rumble ROAR !!
AND............no oil or water leaks !!! The water was getting very hot but Oil pressure good at 75 psi

So,I fitted the fan and motor which impeded on the oil cooler pipe/ fan rotor so I pushed them a little way into the engine bay. Connected the fan to the (incorrect at the time) wires to see if the fan kicked in to cool the water and fired her up again.
She started on the button without the jump leads.
Then disaster, a cloud of oil mist and a flying spray of oil in a fan shape across the engine bay, up the wall and on the pantry window !!!!
After moving pretty quickly to turn off the engine the cause was very obvious.
By pushing the oil cooler pipes from the front oil cooler into the engine bay one had been bent slightly and was touching the alternator fan blades, which had eventually worn right through the pipe, and at 75 psi left a right ****ing mess to clean up.
So that was done with a heavy heart on a lovely sunny day using lots of wifeys kitchen roll and a nice coating of oil on some of the engines rustier places.
It was mid morning and I decided to call it a day, I still ached and felt tired and annoyed at my stupidity and the fact I have to buy another hose to make it leak free. I'm sure it has a master plan and enjoys thwarting me.
Next up ( after the hose replacement) is to buy and fit new front discs and hub ( needs sets of shims and inner grease seals) buy two cylinders for brake calipers and set of seals, pads and pins, fit then I can attach wheels and lower down to earth to see the actual ride height.
Then fit rear brakes/shoes fill with fluid, bleed and maybe go on a test run up the cul-de-sac.

p.s I will post pictures when errant daughter is back from hols as she's taken the camera.

two steps forward... etc

2011-07-18T14:26:00.001+01:00

Where can I begin. The shortage of cash and other domestic/professional issues have slowed things down to a less than walking pace.
I purchased a new flat wheel/wire brush thingy for the grinder to finish off the last two wheels.
However, since there is no front suspension fitted I didn't feel like using the jack on the diff to totally raise the car from the ground. The way things have been of late I'd probably drop the car and be unable to raise it again. So that was out. It'll have to wait till the front suspension is finished.
What else has been done then ?
Not much. Ground down the RH front bumper chassis front in readiness for the chrome bumper mounting.
The brake calipers got my attention next.
The RH side caliper was split and it was impossible to remove the cylinders. They were almost fully in.
A quick trip to the local filling station to use the air line to try and blow them out was a miserable failure. The air line end only accepts tyre valves.
Nearby was a local garage on a run down industrial estate. I'll try there I thought.
Big mistake. I only needed a quick blip of an airline on the brake hose and job done, but.
The reception was very swish. Round about there was evidence of high performance cars, Porsche, BMW, Jags and a very nice pristine MG midget. At least they might help.
The elderly snooty receptionist greeted me with a curt "Yes". I explained and she replied " are you a customer of ours ?".
Needless to say after 5 minutes of waiting I gave her a get out clause on her return " They're too busy ?" Yes she replied.
So I hot footed to my local repair man who was very obliging. I must add I'd just paid him £350 for the MOT and stuff on the Renault runaround ( Wifeys car).
The LH caliper/cylinders were in a much worse state. Crusty with rust and oily gunge. There was no way a blast of air was going to remove them.
Despite three soakings in penetrating fluid there was no movement, not even round ways let alone outwards.
I desperately ground a clean face onto the ends of the cylinders and welded a steel bar to them so I could apply some leverage.
Well after three attempts, all resulting with the steel breaking free of the weld I resorted to a more logical engineering solution.
I drilled and tapped an M6 hole in the centre of the cylinder and tried using a screw to force it out. Trouble was I wasn't sure if the threads were stripping or not. So, I drilled/tapped three more holes on the inside of the cylinder and tightened in a circular sequence. Bingo, out it came.

top left is the offending cylinder ( with prising out bolts still in situ. Just look at the rust and crud on it though. Bottom right is the same caliper. Rusty but not too bad and should clean up nicely.

The seals were easy to remove and these will be renewed, but also the cylinders need replacing = more unexpected cost, plus the hoses could do with new ones + £ !!.
Eventually in a pit of despair I removed the bump stops. Not easy at all. They were thankfully in good nick so i painted them and the following day re-fitted. It took the best part of the afternoon to attach the 4 nuts per side. The access was fiddly and restricted and not easy with baggy latex gloves on. let alone trying to get the bracket in place and thread the nuts through. I eventually had to drill one of the mounting holes on the end of the cross member out to M10 from M8 to allow the bolts in and the angled top seat properly. I must say its a crap design and allowing bolts to pass through aluminium and steel had corroded the bolt un-spinnable, hence the need for drilling.
The painted Armstrong damper were fitted next. The LH side went on no probs, if a little fiddly with the two bolts nearest the inner wing. The access was again restricted and very little room to swing a spanner. The wifeys kamasa knuckle wrench helped though.
The RH side was a different matter. The inner bolts would not seat and "grab" the threads. I removed them several times and each time with little movement possible failed.
I left it for another day. This time with some gentle persuasion ( hammer) and only attempting one bolt at a time in it ( they, the two nearest the inner wing) went in. TFFT. It still took two hours though !.
Until more money comes my way I'll be concentrating on the bodywork. There are lots of little rubbing down/filling/sanding/wet/dry-ing to do and this is definitely cheap to do, but very boring.
Uni has a few more weeks to run on placement before the final one day assessment ( I failed the last one in unusual circumstances - along story and very depressing ). I did have a job offer which made the episode bearable, but as of a few days ago this was withdrawn. Real bummer, and not much on the horizon either.
Still, I'm trying to remain positive. If I don't sink into a deep depression first.

grinding out a result

2011-05-31T21:33:00.000+01:00

The title refers not actually to grinding but the wire brush thingy. Same thing though, it spins very fast and can do serious damage to car and body.
Today saw me get to grips with another two road wheels, since its about the only thing I can do without some cash for the mass of front suspension parts needed.
I have two wire wheel brush thingies. a cup shaped wheel and a straight flat wheel for the grinder and another smaller cup wheel for the drill plus a good curved and flat handled wire brush.
I started with the flat wheeled brush in the grinder and after 2 hours one wheel cleaned both sides !
I was getting tougher on the second road wheel as most of the bristles had gone and it was very difficult to get inside the "join" of the Rostyle.
So, carried on with cup brush till disaster struck, the grinder just died. No amount of shaking and tapping would bring it back to life.
After lunch I sat down and took the grinder to bits. Couldn't see anything obvious, brushes o.k, switch o.k, power to, good. Then it dawned on me, the fuse !!.
What a wally, 30 mins wasted on what should have been the first thing I should have checked.
Doh........
Anyways, here is the scuttle in primer as promised last time

Not very exciting I know, however I've now done the lower section too. I don't look as good as access was tricky in some areas and its not visible when the grille is in. I'm sick of the black paint that's everywhere, this car in the past had one hell of a colour change from White to Black. Now I've decided its definitely going back to White. Which White though ? Wifey likes Old English white, I prefer Glacier White. Anyone know what colour it would have been when made in 1977 ???
I have husbandly duties next few days so may get more time over the weekend to finish the wheels off (five seems a very big number thinking of the time spent grinding them, 2 and 3/4 done2 more to do !)
More soon...ish

more to do too ( two) 2

2011-05-14T15:00:00.000+01:00

So, on an overcast Sunday I did what I wanted, sort of !.
I tackled the front bumper mounting ready to fit a chrome bumper mounting ( eventually, when purchased- I have the chrome bumper, but not the fitting bracket)

The scary grinder made mincemeat of it. see above. I still have the top box section to remove ( the part behind the grill) but wont do that till I've decided what type of grill to buy.
Now I've had time to reflect and give some logical thought to it I think I've cut it back too far. It is level with the crossmember. The diagram and instructions I've seen from the NAMG register shows the original rubber bumper mounting end plate still in situ with only the top box section cut back. Oooh Errr !
So I moved on to something else as the neighbours were out and about outside and trying to enjoy their Sunday too. I wire brushed the rusty crappy back plates with the grinder and whire wheel cup brush thingy. I then painted with the Hammerite rust converter, left to dry and painted with Hammerite matt black. It was a pain to apply as its so thick, however doing this will save about £14 on a part thats not vital or is seen. I also painted the shorter springs I purchased a couple of years ago. This time I used a different matt black paint that was a lot thinner and they looked a treat ( they were an inexplicable light blue colour !). Then I collated all the suspension nuts, bolts, washers and things and labelled them LH or RH. I was afraid of mixing them up, the RH stuff was on drivers seat/rear tailgate/bucket and the LH stuff was in the passenger foot well.
That done, wire brushed the washers and bolt heads and painted matt black I put them away.
Then that's where I started to go backwards.
I spent ages trying to removed the LH nuts and bolts from the hub to disc. Last time I had to drill them out.
This time I had to also. Trouble was the 1/8" drill bit was blunt and dull. Then a brainwave. I clamped grinder into workmate and sharpened drill bit. It took me back 35 years as an apprentice toolmaker. I was then forever grinding drills back to a neat cutting point and it was a knack I'd not lost.
So, after one and half hours the two parts were separated. Long time ? yes, the trusty Bosch electric drill was overheating big time when it was time to use the 3/4" drill bit, so I interspersed this with trying to remove the LH kingpin spacer from the stub axle.
What a performance. The RH side slid in and out like an old sea boot, or even precision engineered part utilising a H7 - f7 sliding fit.
The LH side had been hammered in and would not budge. I had to use the bolt and the inside of an old rubber bush copper liner. Even the it was tough with lots of faffing. Look at the spacer tube once removed. Its been roughly (very) ground to be a hammered in fit !

This now explains why the steering was very heavy ( and why the LH side wishbone holes were Oval )
It also means I need a new kingpin and spacer to add to the growing list of unsuspected faulty parts.
After some searching "Watford Classics" can supply the bottom half only + kingpin, second hand for £20 so its not as bad as replacing the whole hub assy at £60 ish.
And I thought I had only to remove the suspension parts, paint them, put on new lower spring and bushes and jobs done. Haa ! 9 months later and the cars still on the axle stands and immobile.
I did tackle the front scuttle with the hand held wire brush and it looks somewhat better.

This is the "before " shot. I'm still looking for the "after" photo. more soon folks

A little more done means even more to do

2011-05-02T20:09:00.000+01:00

Had a great end to my two weeks and a bit off.
Finished the dissertation for Uni ahead of hand in date and well before the extended Easter break so had it very easy, albeit with little or no cash. I packed in the Saturday night job to concentrate the final push at placement, exams and dissertation.
The weather has been glorious and not one day of rain, only sun, sun, sun and a little breeze.
It was doubly difficult since this time or year sees my birthday and inevitable cash for parts come my way. However, my b'day is on the last day of the hols hence the frustration at not having the money earlier, but plenty of time.
That said I have a small sum to spend wisely, but probably not on what I thought all through winter.
I did plan to re bush (Polybush) all the front suspension so its all removed and painted up from September last.( see a few posts ago RE all laid up for winter)
I made a list then and it comprised :-
Poly bushes + roll bar bushes
2 top damper nuts and bolts ( mine were welded on at the nuts !)
2 Brake discs ( well and truly rust bound and scored beyond belief)
4 Nuts + bolts to hold disc to hubs ( why not 8 I here you say, I'll explain later)
2 Inner grease bearing retainers
1 set of shims
1 set of brake pads + pins etc
2 back plates
2 or 4 bottom wishbone arms (see photos of painting/removal..viz oval hole. Is it wise to replace only one side ??)
Misc split pins
Grease...how much and what type ?
I also needed other stuff that was left pending from other little flurries long forgotten about viz:-
Duck oil releasing fluid

Main Engine to oil cooler pipe ( yes I know I should have bought two but I thought the one on the oil cooler I bought from E-bay was o.k - I was wrong)
Flexible clutch pipe ( leaking badly- and in a awkward place too)
I'm sure there's more suspension parts I need but have forgotten, and there's lots more other stuff
such as :-
Inner wing splash panels
front spoiler + mounting bolts/nuts
seam sealer
One wing attaching bolt set
One door bolt set

Anyways, enough of lists, I seem to spend my entire life either making them or thinking of making them.
The last day of my hol saw me wend my way to Thoresby Hall for a classic car show.
And a very good show it was too. I went alone so as to have no distractions and enjoy myself at my own pace. I bought said clutch flex pipe there too for a bargain £4. Normally at least £8 to 10 from the usual suppliers. I was initially billed as a "Mini" east of England show but there was much much more.
Lots of vintage motorcycles and scooters, American 60's monsters with fins ( fantastic, god how much do they cost to respray ??) Triumphs TR2,250, 3,4,5,6,7,8. Many MG's of all types, Humbers, Datsun 240Z's, Fords from the 70 &80's, TVR ( some nice Tuscans) Lotus Esprit ( My dream car), Eclat, Elise, Europa, 7. Jags, Rovers and lots of pre war stuff . I particularly enjoyed the Lambretta/Vespa scooters too ( more maybe later on that topic). All in all a very enjoyable day and I got home around 2.30 in the afternoon.
Just time for a quick tinker then, to "get a bit more done".
I'll start by replacing the flex clutch pipe I've just bought, it should be easy enough now I have the "wonder duck oil". I bought this a few weeks ago on recommendation and it is good stuff, I released the oil cooler pipe nut from the aluminium oil cooler nut housing without any trouble ( unlike a few years ago when I destroyed the old oil cooler trying to undo said nuts using WD 40).

Ha, how wrong can you be.
I'd done the sensible thing and removed the starter motor to aid access. I also found out that I'd only put one bolt back in last time I had the starter motor out some time ago, so its a job well spotted. WTF is the other bolt though?
After lots of swearing, socket swapping, bruised knuckles, dropped tools, duck oil and more swearing I decided I may have to cut through the f****ng thing with a hacksaw. The gearbox end undid easily but could only move One turn due to the pipe twisting. The other end was held in a bracket level with the side of the sump and comprised of flared steel pipe/union connected to inside of flex pipe, large 7/8" loose nut on outside of flex pipe + 3/4" nut as part of flex pipe ( acting as lock nut) well rusted and trapped on bracket. There was very little room. And to make matters worse the 7/8" nut ran down about 3/4" of fine thread. The 1/2" union was impossible to budge due to its location and rust and fine thread.
I got the hacksaw out again and cut off below the pipe body below the bracket so I could get a socket on it. getting somewhere at last. Uunfortunately whilst trying to stop the top steel pipe and union turning, it just sheared the steel pipe above the union.
Just as well really, I was getting fed up and frustrated after such a good day.

Here's the offending items removed ( the Union has gone......somewhere !)
So that means another part adding to my list just so I can at least move the car on the drive.

Job hunting and interviews are next on the agenda then final qualification and hopefully proper paid employment. May just be able to save some money to complete the suspension. Otherwise its back to the old bind of power brush on grinder and de-rusting stuff and primer application ready for whenever. Keep meaning to do the Rostyle wheels but can't be arsed as its messy fiddly and noisy especially on a hot sunny day with neighbours all outside. ( did one last year and it looks good in primer though)

More soon folks. p.s I'm a day older but none the wiser. Time for a drink. I'm in Theatre tomorrow and up for 6.30 a.m.

Shredded, we can put humpty together again !

2011-03-11T14:26:00.000Z

It relates to my once super dooper car cover. When purchased for £15 from Argos it was great. Heavy duty polythene/vinyl with elasticated bottom and HUGE.
Time and the elements have done their worse and after two spells of high winds during the evenings has seen the silver cover turn into flotsam in many pieces, all held together by the slenderest of elasticated hems.
A few months ago prior to X-mas I did purchase a polypropylene spun undercover as additional protection as the outer cover was beginning to tear a little ( a lot really). The welded seams seemed to be letting go and had been stapled and silicone glued by me but not very successfully. But, good enough to keep out the snow and rain, mostly.
The first recent spell of wind tore the outer cover well and truly and I fought a losing battle with string and elasticated hook things in such a gale force wind. God knows how sailors go on.The following morning saw me in some despair and quite honestly I couldn't give a **it anymore. Any cash I had needed to go towards the suspension parts. Then the saga of the radiators happened ( household radiators not Automotive) so the MG plight was forgotten somewhat. That and the pressures of Uni and studying made my focus elsewhere.
It was only after another bout of weekend gale force wind was attention turned to the eerrant cover.
Was it recoverable ? ( I mean not literally, but figuratively ) viz could I salvage what was left of it or did I need another.Another was out of the question. Argos no longer sold the cover and similar ones were elsewhere were £45 +.
Another trip to Poundland saw the purchase of 2 more hook/elastic thingies and some thick but small polypropylene covers, not bad for £3. Wilko's was next and 2 rolls of proper gaffer tape, the re-enforced type.
So one afternoon when wifey was out I removed the cover carefully, nay teased and coaxed it away from the crevices of the car and deposited it on the kitchen floor ( largest open space in the house )
It was a real puzzle.It was all in one piece ( around the elasticated bottom, just) but in several separate "flaps". I was worried about taping the edges and getting one flap or whole section twisted inside out.
The cover is huge and roughly car shaped, had staples in some areas and dry hard silicone glue in others interspersed with dirt and oil in one corner.
Anyways, after lots or kneeling and logical thought it was finally back together and mostly weatherproof.
As a further precaution I taped a thick polythene film in place of the windscreen and rear screen and re-fitted the cover.
If after the first spell of gales I would have had the hindsight to use the two spare wheels to hold the cover onto the car bonnet and roof maybe the damage wouldn't have been so bad. The cover is big and didn't half flap around in the wind.
Hindsight............................the tool of the foolish. Why is it experience is only something you get AFTER you need it !
Look a pretty picture of the current cover done. Just in time too. BBC say the next few weeks are more wind and snowy conditions.

When dreams fade a little

2011-02-22T11:57:00.001Z

Or , as has been said "the kids need new shoes".

The MG fund has hit rock bottom. Just when I was beginning to dream of summer skies and long uninterrupted weekends working on YooPoo ( The MG, her new name, involving the letter suffix of her registration plate).
Last post I commented that the cash fund was growing quite nicely.
Well now its down to nothing, nought, zero, null, nuffin, zilch.....even bugger all.
Why, well let me explain. You knew I would.
Just before Christmas, Christmas eve actually, wifey asked me to put washing( Towels) onto radiator in conservatory.
Being a good ole Lostsock, and in a good mood I obliged. Only to see a strange bubble in said radiator with a little brown streak running down below. Pushing said "bubble" lead to a very thin stream of water jetting out horizontally into room. Despite my best efforts with the epoxy glue and latterly Mig welder I could not stem the flow. So, after a quick look see from the plumber to empty the rad and cut it out of the circuit a Christmas was spent with one room freezing cold. A Rad would not be available till the first week in Jan , and so it was but with me £ 100 quid poorer. Trouble was that Jan is a very expensive time for us and most people, and Feb sees most of the accumulated Xmas debts paid off.
And it came to pass I felt rather smug at using my hard earned cash to buy the rad and pay the plumber without too much extra debt incurred and some light at the end of the festive financial burden.
As Feb emerged from the torpor of a belt tightening Jan and the light at the end of the tunnel distinctly visible I did the same kindly thing again, yes hung the washing on the radiator, this time in the front room.
Horror of horrors. A huge brown stain down the wall behind the rad and a soaking wet carpet with rusty wet water. It was a big radiator too ( 72" x 37") A quick call to the plumber, a date was set and a price obtained.
£170 fookin quid. And guess what, guess how much I had in my MG pot left ?

No......................... £160 quid, exactly !! That's OK wifey said I'll lend you the rest, its the least I can do.
I quickly and politely reminded her that its "our" house, to which, made her look ready to rev up for a real argument, so I desisted and went back to feeling smug but a little wazzed off.

Just to make matters even worse, the great windy weekend saw my cover ripped to shreds and the clothes dryer ( The aluminium pole with washing line round ) went and snapped clean into two. A replacement is only £35. Since wifey is in charge of where the washed clothes are dried I kindly offered that she might buy this item. I wish it had been the other way round ( she pays for radiators,I buy rotary dryer) but ,Hey Ho.......it all comes out of the same bank account and does nothing to hide my guilt at having (or not, as of now) actual money to fritter away on a "hobby".
As the title says the kids forever need new shoes. I don't know why ? Son is 17 and spends all day in bed, rises at (usually after) lunch and wears JimJams till bedtime. The only expense he generates is food (Lots and lots, normally beans,cheese on toast, scrambled egg, pies and sausage rolls- I keep telling him I'll not perform the colonoscopy in 10 years time) and an electricity bill that could run a small city from leaving every light on possible and making his x-box so hot you could fry eggs on it. Daughter has a penchant for clothes she never wears, creams and emollients to decorate the bathroom, 45,0000 different hair products and again has the same effect as son for the electricity supply ( Namely leaving lights on) Good ole wifey spends, like me, bugger all but has more of a conscience.
At least she gets to spend the £80 or so quid a week on shopping, which was once a joy now denied me as she does it online.
At least I'll be qualified this summer and hopefully in a job within our good old NHS system.
Perhaps then I/we will then have money ? Methinks a holiday is well due first though, if only. A lottery win of modest proportions will do fine. Not much to ask is it ?

So, in a nutshell I'm well and truly skint. I've already told the landlady ( a couple of months ago) at the pub where I work Saturday evenings I'm quitting come March. So, I am well and truly stuffed, skint, wazzed off (MG wise) and not a little frustrated.
On top of which my health ain't been so good for the last 6 weeks and I'm on my 3rd set of antibiotics.
It could be worse though..........I could have bought a Triumph !!

More soon hopefully, if I've not slit my throat before.

The Bodger strikes

2010-10-30T17:54:00.003+01:00

So, a major spot of "bodging has been found on the LH suspension parts.
Half of the stuff was removed a couple of weeks ago without too much trauma. Except the top "A" arms bolt was loose, (Kingpin top) ( Nay...not enough thread actually).
Removal of the castleted nuts and lowering the spring pan was easy enough. I even managed to undo the drop link from the anti roll bar to the spring pan. It was a struggle on the other ( RH) side as the ratchet head was a little too large to allow the socket to sit on correctly and get enough purchase.
So how did I acheive it on the LH side then ? Simples....I used the universal joint thingy in my ( sorry wifey's) Kamasa socket set, doh ! Its a lot narrower.
So where was the bodging then ?
Since I had free access to the spring pan and the drop link was off I undid the nuts holding on the lower "A" arm. During wire brushing I noticed a large blob of weld ( I first thought it was grease, as one end of everything was covered in 30 year old "stuff") but no. It was weld. I was annoyed and a bit in pain since I was using the scary grinder with the flat wire brush disc in. I managed to "wave it gently" accross my lightly surgical gloved finger, and it stung a bit.
I flipped said arm over to see the full extent of why the weld was there.

Weld ???

Ovality bodge

So, some heathen had welded on a bog standard washer over the oval hole. What a cheapskate. This even makes me look positively generous.
A quick check with MG hive see the arms a a couple of quid each.
More weld was to follow. Whilst engulfed in a cloud of rust tackling the spring pan orifice I noticed a partucularly difficult patch of rust/old grease which the wire brush did its best to worry.
Once the dust cloud cleared and fufferfour had a good look, this is what I found.

Looks like rusty metal in the base was replaced with 3 tons of weld. No wonder the wire brush struggled a bit.

Anyways, I did'nt bother to paint the two "A" arms since I decided to buy new ones. I did paint the pan though, together with all the other stuff removed. Since the weather was good I also removed the anti roll bar ( sway bar for US readers) and had to find a novel way to hang it to dry.

So, there's nothing like showing your undies and smalls in public then, Ha . Hope wifey dont read this.

Mefinks this may be the last of my efforts till springtime, as the feet were freezing as the light faded.

One last point, will the tw*ts who keeps offering me medical "products" via this blog please f**k off, thankyou.

Late addition. The t***s who keep sending me the offers for financial and medical crap have hopefully been thwarted.

Aparrently its the title of the blog post that thier meta-phisers search for. So I've changed it. Lets hope thats an end to it all.

Since not much will happen in Lostsock land MG wise here's wishing you all a merry Christmas and happy new year. If you don't believe in either sorry, your missing a good holiday.

My cover is broken

2010-10-15T16:05:00.002+01:00

That about sums up the weatherproofness ( such a word ?) of the cars cover.
I remember when I bought it and had high hopes for it. One long year ( or is it two) the elements and ruby the cat + other vagrant cat Colin have had their toll on the then excellent Argos cover.
At £15 though I can't complain. Other than it could be better spent on the long list of items I'm likely to need hopefully before winter really sets in.
All I've done since the last post is re-paint the RH side suspension parts a little, more like touch up. Then managed to remove the LH brake caliper, pads, pins & back plate. Hopefully on a sunny weekend soon I'll removed the rest of the LH suspension, then pray for cash and more mild weekends so as to assemble both corners and make it moveable again.
Right now placement at hospital and academic work seems to be taking up all of my time. That and fretting about a sudden inward leak of the elements. In fact, I remember now, during an odd moment I actually taped up the rear window with black plastic which should stop the annoying dribble of water right into my toolbox. What prompted me to do this was a Saturday intended to be devoted to the RH suspension cleanup/touch-up. On peeling back the cover I was met with the trusty plastic tray toolbox about 2" deep in water. it took a good 2 hours to dry up the boot puddle, tools and tray.
So, next on the must do is another trip to Argos for said giant elasticated silver cover. Hope they still sell it.
More soon peeps with photos..........donations or even comments of encouragement gratefully accepted.

watching paint dry

2010-09-26T20:03:00.001+01:00

So, here are some parts painted today. Actually I'm a little disappointed with them. I rushed somewhat due to the imminent rain/wind/darkness since it was mid Sunday afternoon. What would have been ideal is a blasting cabinet and industrial cleaning tank. The Armstrong damper and the inside of the kingpin Assy where caked in years old grease. I did several coats of the foamy degrease stuff and a good wipes down but the grease just seem ed to be "pushed" around. Spent a not long enough time wire brushing like mad then decided to paint. Which paint though ?. I had two options. The Matt black stuff I did the rear axle with or the Hammerite smooth Matt I purchased by accident. The axle Matt stuff was a doddle to apply and quite runny. Trouble was it lacked the " body" of a newly painted/refurbished item. It looked more factory finish, i.e cheap for the mass market. The Hammerite was definitely thicker in consistency and not easy to apply ( or clean brushes ). Anyways, due to the parts ( stub axle and Armstrong damper mainly) being less than spotlessly clean I opted for the Hammerite. Looks good though, if not a little too thick and glossy.
Since "er indoors" was shouting 30 mins to evening dinner ( Nice homemade Prawn curry with all the trimmings) I packed it away to review next week.
The list of parts needed grows for this corner of the car, viz
Rubber bushes complete set
Inner rubber bearing cover
Grease gun + recommended grease
Top wishbone nut,bolt & washer
New set of split pins
New brake disc
New Brake disc back plate
New Pads, pins and strap/lock tab
New Bolts (4) and nuts - Disc to hub
mixed set of bearing shims

Then probably same for tuther side some time maybe in spring.

And that's on top of the new large oil cooler pipe, small oil gauge pipe/union, clutch rubber hose, brake fluid, clutch fluid.

Its gonna be a long hard winter............more soon folks.
( p.s WD40 is great for cleaning Hammerite off brushes)

suspended suspension...or suspension suspened ! Part One

2010-09-02T21:16:00.001+01:00

Enigmatic title ? Yes that refers to my attempts to undo all the rusted and oily tough nuts on the front RH side.
Since I have no form of oxy/acetylene torch ( or common blowlamp come to that) it was an uphill struggle all the way. Or even an upside down struggle at least.
I last touched the MG a good few weeks ago prior to my exams and subsequent re-sit ( result pending ).
I had managed to remove the brake caliper, split the caliper on the bench the tried to remove the hub as a whole. It was then I discovered I didn't have a socket large enough for the hub centre ( Inch & 1/8th AF)
I tried in vain all the local tool shops in town ( 6 in total) only to be given the same bemused look from all when asking for Imperial sockets.
Good ole E-bay sorted it in minutes, and had it a few days later. When it arrived I tested it on the rear.
I had a shock, the rears are larger nuts. At first I thought I'd bought the wrong one, but turned out I was just too lazy to lift the front cover to look at the front hub. Why did BL make them different sizes ??
Anyways, I'm not touching the rear hubs, only the front.
So in a fit of pique and guilt trip of non revision I did what I normally do, nothing, for a good few weeks
That is until yesterday.
With most of the day ahead of me I set about the front RH unit again, but this time with the correct size socket. Split pin out and nut off easy peasy, off came the rusty disc and even rustier hub.
Spent some frustrating time trying to undo the outer hub from the disc hub..........impossible.
The workmate with jury rigged "new " jaws is rapidly disintegrating.
It has 4 bolts in from the back with well recessed heads, nuts at the front but even more recessed. And there is very little room at the back, in fact no room to fit a socket over the bolt head.
So, after another liberal dousing with the sweet smelling penetrating fluid I put it to one side and set about removing the spring pan + arms and upper arms.
Disconnecting the ball joint steering arm was easy with some synchronised bashing of two hammers. Timing was essential, as was "feel" since one hammer was of the "claw" type and the other "lump" type = gross weight mismatch. It took about 15 blows in various directions and swing timings then viola, it was free.
The front anti roll bar ( sway bar for U.S readers) came away easily.
Then the problems started. Or one problem in particular.
The bolt and nut through the end ( narrow end) of the top "A" frame where it attaches to the vertical trunnion had been ...............wait for it

Welded to the frame each side !!!!!!! It was not even the correct bolt. One side had been a domed head with a spot of weld on the arm to stop it spinning. Tuther side had weld wire and gobs of weld on the nut and arm to stop it spinning.
A nifty slice with the super thin cutting disc in the scary grinder saw the heads sliced off expertly.
Trouble was I was left with two flush faces and a bolt that had been in situ gawd knows how long.
Repeated bashing with punch and lump hammer did nothing, either direction.
So I decided the whole assembly had to come off ( Armstrong damper with two upper wishbones, trunnion connected.
At this point sense prevailed and I took the lower pan A frame outer mountings off.
This was a scary move as there is a lot of force since the spring is forcing it apart.
Fortunately the car was supported on two axle stands so I used the trolley jack to lift up the lower pan to take the strain, undid the and nut and tapped the bolt through.
This was surprisingly easy, and it was the part I thought to be the most difficult job on suspension overhaul.
Careful lowering of the jack let the pan down gently, a few taps with lumpy ( my new best friend) and the spring was free.
I was still left with the top "a" frame connected and the lower one too !!!! albeit at the subframe side.
Since the top bolt ( welded ) would not shift the Armstrong unit complete with drop link had to come off ,so I tried to remove the Armstrong bolts (4).
The front two easy, the rear..............................gawd what a performance. RH side was slow.
LH side near impossible. No socket with my extension would fit ( if I had an extension half its length it may have worked ) but a spanner was a real tight fit movement wise. I think I moved it 1/2 a flat at a time with approx 45 seconds of fiddling to get the ring end located properly each turn, 40 minutes later the last bolt came out. The total time for the other three was about 15 minutes.
Bear in mind this was done with bleeding and sore hands, oily as f*** parts and sideways laying down right on top of our cast iron castelated sewer cover.
Then off the top half came, to join its other partly reassembled friend, fiend and co partner the hub assembly on the trusty workmate, to enjoy some time off in the sunshine bestowed on us this very late summer. As a gesture of complete juvenile frustration and envy I took enormous joy in drowning both ~~twats~~ in perfumey penetrating fluid..

Since that's a lot of text..........and no pictures ( hands and body too oily to get camera from bedroom) I'll leave it for now. More this weekend.

More grunt and groan.....with pictures

2010-07-29T20:54:00.000+01:00

Instead of doing the right thing today and yesterday ( revising for exam ) I had a major potter with the MG.

So, fitted all new copper brake pipes. Cor, they ain't half long and complex. The bending them part was easy, too easy in fact. I had the idea I'd get them straight as a die looking ever so neat and tidy. Not a chance !. Still their in and fastened. Some of the P clips were a swine to re-fasten. Namely the one directly below the master cylinder. Two pipes almost went side by side ( with some ungentlemanly language and "persuasion"), the clutch pipe (steel) was in the way as was two thick cables and starter motor solenoid with mass of other wires. The P clips distort like buggery when bent back then forward as their holes then don't line up.
One under the rear seat was also tough as it was a strap clamp holding the fuel line and another pipe/cable + the new copper line, all had to be fitted into a rubber 1/2 grommet.

The bad news is I have 3 leaks. One oil leak cured easily on the front oil cooler/pipe union. The union was leaking, cured by buying and fitting a new oil pipe. I was dreading removing the nut from the pipe as where it attaches to the Aluminium oil cooler as last time I sheared off the base thus ruined the oil cooler. The new cooler was a second hand purchase from good ole E-bay, bought and fitted a least two years ago. Trouble was I used the old pipes that came with it ( attached at oil cooler end) since they were better than mine.
Unwise move. During the last start up it leaked/ nay dribbled out.
So its repaired now with a brand new pipe. I have to buy another pipe now as I'm not risking the other one.
as you can see from the photo I still have the Union to undo from the cooler. Tried today and it wont budge.

I'll leave it to absorb some penetrating fluid for a few days.
The other oil leak was at the engine end of the oil gauge pipe. Again I'd bought and fitted a new one ages ago but noticed a very small leak again at start up. I knew it would though. To fit it was a nightmare as its very inaccessible and I crossed/stripped the threads in the end of the hose. So another one is needed..again.
This time I've removed as much as possible to gain better access so as not to make a balls up of it.

The other leak is new, its hydraulic, coming from the connection of the short rubber pipe to the clutch housing cylinder. This again is in the most inaccessible of places, below the starter motor solenoid and very close to the new copper brake line installed and between the gearbox and engine chassis rail.

So I did what I normally do on these occasions.........did something else on the car.

Removed the brake caliper + hose and attempted to remove the hub. Failed miserably. I didn't have a 1-1/8" socket. So whilst all I thought I would need would be new pads then all new rubber bushes it looks like I now need new discs, back plate and maybe pistons too. They are also soaking in penetrating fuel as we speak.

Here's a view of the somewhat bare disc as I left it today. Incidentally, last night I fractured a rib falling down some ladders at bedtime ( Long story don't ask ) so its all been a bit of a struggle in more ways than one.

Here is one member of the family ( Ruby ) who loves the car....she sleeps in it till the early hours. How the hell does she get in when the covers over and the rubber strap/hook thingies are on ?

More soon when I've got money to buy parts and the exams out of the way.

Minor potterings lead to (near) disaster and treason

2010-07-26T20:12:00.000+01:00

So, fitted the water pump and fan belt without too much trauma. Quite easy really.
Then decided to tighten the cylinder head bolts and set tappet clearances before starting engine....again.

During the process, well, at the very start I noticed a tappet arm well off centre, how strange !!!
Further investigation showed the tappet rod loose and flapping around at the bottom of its shaft.
More investigation by removing the small valve/tappet chest cover at the front.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There resting on its side and hiding in a puddle of oil was a tappet follower.
It was for the inlet/outlet (forgot now) of No 2 cylinder. I must have not put it back correctly during the head re-furb. They are very fiddly. They are about 2" long ( 50mm) and 3/4" diameter (15mm) with a hole in the end for the tappet rod to drop into. You need fingers like a deformed midget to get them in position and the grip of a python to hold them.
Anyways, did that eventually.
The big problem was getting the valve/tappet chest cover and gasket back on properly. It and the holding nut are directly under the manifold. No finger room at all. Bear in mind its oily too. I must have tried 15 times before biting the bullet and removing loads to access it.
viz.
carb fuel feed pipe.
Heatshield
4 boingy springs
throttle cable
choke cable
Manifold nuts and stepped washers
4 of the most fiddly and awkward carb mounting nuts ever made
4 gaskets to carbs
inlet manifold
exhaust manifold

After that the cover and thick rubber gasket were a piece of cake.

Which reminds me, during some of the attempts at starting and trying to cure why it won't start unless off the jump leads means plug no 2 mystery solved.

Some time after starting the first time, inspection of said plug was clean as a whistle. No wonder, no spark, no compression, no exhaust ala no valve movement due to errant tappet follower.
No wonder the engine when started sounded a bit loud and rough.
Anyway, now I can't wait to restart, or at least attempt to.

I still have the oil gauge connector seal at the engine to replace, one oil cooler pipe( leaking at its union) at the oil cooler end to refit and replace some cracked fuel rubber pipes ( noticed during makeshift fuel filler /gatorade bottle).

I did remove the ancient selmer alarm fitted together with loads of bodged wiring and find where the mystery switch wires led to ( across the coil connections/ some sort of home made immobiliser device )
I've left this though to remove later.

I also solved the damper arm problem. After buying the kit to lower the rear from MGOC the Armstrong dampers looked at a too vertical angle.
A quick call ( well 2 months after fitting) to MGOC and they sent me the correct ones ( longer, you should still use the RB links even when lowering to CB height )
Spent a frustrating 3 hours replacing since it involved laying on my side and spannering away forever.

Next job is to replace the brake pipes from rear axle to front end, both front corners ( bought and waiting)
Then replace the front suspension bushes.( not purchased yet )
Then rebuild front and rear brakes. Ditto.
Between which I'll probably try the engine electrics again.

The Treason is ........horror of horrors I've been fancying a Lotus Esprit.
And , it was my hero Ed China who started it. A recent episode of Wheeler Dealer whetted my appetite for what must be the most beautiful of all sports cars ever designed. Trust my luck they are a real pain to work on though. Maybe one day well after the MG is sorted and I have money. A V8 would be nice.

Life goes on for poor old Lostsock, having an exam re-sit late August which has really ruined my summer.
Son No 1 behaves like lord rising from bed at afternoon and lounging in jimjams all day. Daughter No1 is just the opposite, full of action and plans giving us no rest. Wifey continues to nag re DIY on the house. So I'm torn between all this and revision for a tough exam in 4 weeks time.
Lets hope for some sunshine and cash.

More soon

Faffing around with fuel..... part IV

2010-06-15T19:36:00.001+01:00

What I forgot to say between parts II & III is that I did try again to start the car after the first successful attempts some days later.
It would not start. never, No way.
The cause...........................bad fuel !

Remember I don't have an unleaded head. The fuel was about 10/14 days old. I should ahve known since it was a light tea colour. I dismissed this as mild contam from the plastic ( approved) container I'd previously had Diesel in.
After some research ont tinterweb I found out that fuel loses quite an amount of its octane rating if its just stood, particularly if its small amounts like less than 2 litres.
That's the reason it won't start.....................I'm sure........ish.

One tip I can pass on for all would be restorers of MG's is use a site called BBS.
Its a web ring for MG car restorers and has the best ever Forum. Post any question, General or Technical and your guaranteed to get some sound and experienced advice.
This is the link >BBS Forum You have to register ( its free and very easy with NO commercial spam/hassles.

Its them who assisted me with my spring conundrum ( yet to be resolved- replacement wise).
Apologies for the delay in getting to the point of the thread. You knew we'd get there in the end though didn't you ?

I have a spare day from Uni/Placement Friday. So, before the big match and work in the p.m I'll put on the new fuel pump, replace the oil cooler pipe with a new one, replace the oil gauge engine block connector, re tighten cylinder head bolt, renew fan belt, set tappet clearances and renew the old wrinkly engine bay fuel pipe, get some new fuel and have another go at starting her up in attempt to find if the alternators charging and the leaks have stopped.

To keep you Interested here's pictures of new and old fuel pumps.

p.s I also have yet to finish fitting the new copper brake pipes from rear to front and front to L & R.
So thats enough to keep me busy for a while.
More trials and tribulations soon.

Faffing around with fuel part III

2010-06-13T18:05:00.002+01:00

The fuel then. After the last attempt I decided to leave the car a week to concentrate on Academic matters (Exams). Next attempt saw me spill fuel several times over the inner engine bay in an attempt to re-use the same plastic bottle/funnel arrangement. The the rubber hose perished and leaked like a sieve. Fuel spill again.
Engine turnover wobbled mounting of bottle, Fuel spill again.
The fuel did look a rather darker shade of brown from the last success full attempt though. It had been stored in the old plastic approved storage can thingy ( except it once held diesel).
The car would not start using its own battery as it gradually died. Connected up jump leads and still not starting. Employed daughter raise revs on wifeys donor car and still no start, so I gave up for now.

Some time later.
I emptied the water system by undoing the bottom hose. Removed the alternator bolts and fan belt. Ditto pulley housing bolts and pump housing bolts. Carefully scrutiny of wonderful Mr Haynes good book and some poking and pulling revealed the probable cause. Either a worn spindle seal near the pump impeller, or worn bearings. In fact, worn bearings definitely. The shaft veritably wobbled. So I set about taking the pump apart. Not a hope. It was harder than a Rubik's cube. The manual showed a pin/clip and or screw holding bearing/shaft in situ. Nothing doing even after about an hour of poking prodding cleaning cursing and grunting.
A careful read of the tho other guru Mr Lindsay Porters book made the following statement "with pumps being relatively cheap and easily obtainable it is not worth refurbishing this piece of equipment".
Thanks a bunch mate. Another unexpected cost.
The good news is though, I've been putting in extra shifts at the pub and some work at Uni so the funds are good, in fact an all time high of the grand total of £42.53.
I have a shopping list and I'm off to Mechspec to buy a small list of needed goodies.

More soon.

Faffing around with fuel part II

2010-06-13T17:34:00.000+01:00

So I left the last post with the engine going "roar" and me grinning like a demented Cheshire cat.
I removed the jump leads after a few minutes of deafening the neighbourhood and switched the engine off.
If only to let the smoke and fumes disappear.
I tried to start again and after a few /couple of splutters, then..... "roar".
I revved the engine whilst sat in the car......cooo.
It ain't half responsive and loud. Its gonna a be a real rocket........I hope.
Its then when wifey said...."whats all that brown stuff spraying everywhere ?"
A quick inspection with the engine running saw a tiny leak from where the oil gauge pipe meets the engine block. This I knew would leak as it was a swine to screw in and I think I cross-threaded it once or twice in the process. However there were three, yes three water leaks. A small one from the rear of the cylinder head gasket. Easily cured with a quick tweek from ratchet. In fact I think I will need to torque all the cylinder head bolts as I seem to remember on re-assembly I did them up by feel ( medium tight to 45/50 lbf/ft - 61/68 Nm -ish). Another dribble/bubble from what looks like a plugged up waterway in the back of the cylinder head. No worries on that score ( a dab of Araldite will resolve this ala fuel tank repair)
The two major ones were the thermostat housing ( rear bolt) and somewhere near the water pump pulley. It was the latter one that alerted wifey. The browney water was being spun by the movement of the pump pulley in a lovely arc passing each inner engine bay side and wing, right up to the wall next to wifeys worried stance.
So I did what I normally do in these situations. Switched the engine off, disconnected the earth lead on battery and faffed around looking at the engine front end with a worried look on my face. The thermostat housing was easy to remove and cure. It was a brand new housing ( another long story of postal ordering/sending back/lost in post stuff) new gasket made and lovely red gasket sealant - job done.
Pulley not so. I was not sure where the leak was. I was convinced the leak was from the above housing so I restarted the engine again after connecting up leads and battery.
Still leaking, but hard to ascertain where from. It was definitely not the thermostat housing.
I was still overjoyed at the engine firing up, it was late and I wanted a drink.
Still not got to the fuel bit yet.................see next post.

Faffing around with fuel

2010-06-10T10:22:00.002+01:00

So, as the title says fuel and faffing around

Let me explain. I decided, after the confusion with the rear spring dampers to move on to something else.

What I decided to do was fit the rear copper brake pipes. This I did without too much fuss and crossed threads. Only one and that was stupid. How I wish now I'd fitted them onto the axle whilst it was on the bench. The RH side was a swine to attach since now the axle and fuel tank/fuel pump and associated lines were also in position. Not until I got up in a fit of severe arm ache and frustration did I realise the 3 way union causing all the swearing was oh so easily accessible from the inside behind the battery hole. Doh !

So what to do next ?? It was a nice sunny day, nothing else doing ( DIY etc, well lots really but I was trying to ignore it) so I decided to fire it up.

This time I would be well prepared. I needed two sets of jumpleads though. Mine don't reach from front of wifeys car to inside backseat of MG. Borrowed neighbours jumpleads then it went a little downhill.

I could'nt find my/our jumpleads. They've been in the MG for the best part of 5 years skulking in the rear wheelarch. A few months ago I had a clearout of the MG but where the hell did I put the leads ?

After about 45 mins they were found hiding at the bottom of the electrical parts way down on the bottom of a pile of stuff in the shed.

Next job get fuel. Easy peasy. 2 litres minimum.

Then..........make gravity feed fuel pipe from household plastic bottle. Not as easy as it sounds. The day before me and wifey, as usual deposited all the plastic into the council recycle skips during our early morning grocery shopping............hmmmm.

Anyways, eventually found Gatorade bottle donated by son No 1 after some shouting and pleading round the house for assistance in finding suitable receptacle. This was great as it even had the soft inside spout that sealed the old discarded rubber section of fuel line.
Connected up battery and jump leads. Found that my own leads did the job without having to borrow an extra set. Result No 1.
Filled makeshift funnel/Gatorade receptacle with fuel. Mopped up a few leaks and re-plumbed the few hoses responsible.
Started up wifeys car then got ready to turn the MG key..........................

HHHHrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
HHHHrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhh
HHHHrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhh
HHrrrrrrrr.....rrrrrrrrrrrr...........rrrrrrrrrrrrr.......................rrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Hrrr..............rrr.........rrr........rrrrrrr...........rrrrrrrrrr..rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.ROOOOOAAAAARRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes it actually fired up ( the above is the best way i can describe its initial reluctance to fire then its gradual ppfut/ppfutp/pfutfutfut)

I couldn't stop laughing. It sounded like the loudest thing on earth. ( Bear in mind no exhaust on )
It revved and revved and sounded like a WW1 tank.............Fantastic. Even the next door neighbour comment on it.
I was beaming ear to ear, all the family came out to see a grown man nearly crying with joy. It made my day/week/month/year/decade.

To be continued !

Lets ave' em' !!

2010-05-08T16:51:00.000+01:00

Comments please. Just to let me know someones reading and god forbid, enjoying.

Additional hints and tips would be nice too...................hard cash even better !

spring lowering conundrum

2010-05-06T19:01:00.000+01:00

Springs fitted and lowering block/bushes fitted without too many problems.

Except !

Fitting according to common wisdom saw the lower most plate which holds the bottom of the damper link arm far too low. That is the link arm was fully down and the lever arm damper was fully down. What alerted me was the fact that the top attachment of link arm was butting up to the anti roll bar.
See below

So as you see ( the RH side) the end of the drop link is miles away from the mounting hole and out of shot the lever arm it is attached to is fully (almost) down.

So what to do ?

At this point I thought I'd been sent the wrong link arms, so a quick tinterweb surf showed that the CB links are shorter than the RB links. Puzzling ? You bet. I'd still got the original arms ( which had to be ground off ) and these looked like they would do the job a treat. That is, fit in the hole and keep the lever arm almost parallel with the floor and not foul the anti-roll bar.

So whats wrong then ?

I solved it this way.....................................see below

The plate that is normally on the very bottom of the stack of stuff was moved up on top of the spring.

It mounts good, locates well and does not foul on anything plus the lever arm is almost parallel.

Everything else is connected up except the handbrake/drum levers ( waiting for spilt pins to arrive, ditto brake lines/connectors)

I'll tell yer what though. Its definitely lower. It was a real scramble on my back fastening up all the other stuff.

I've now removed the wheels and got the car on the axle stands since this weekend I'll be fitting the brake pipes, fuel pump/hoses and fuel tank. That should see the rear end just about complete.

I've even been tinkering with leaving the front end suspension alone ( except for the fitting of a shorter pair of springs [ bought 18 months ago from E-Bay very locally])

If that's the case the time to start on the electrics..................ooooh errrr !!!!

Maybe I'll finish the odd jobs like door internals/seam sealing/ additional welding/ surface de-rusting/ tidying up shed/ polishing up chrome/ trial fitting chrome bumpers/ staring engine/ replacing engine oil pipe union ( again).

oh descisions descisions.

Is that a leaf spring in your eye 2.........No its on my head !

2010-05-05T13:06:00.000+01:00

After a lot of huffing and puffing, cursing, sweating blood and almost tears I've had enough of the MG, well for a few days at least.
Getting the rear axle on was a struggle of mammoth proportions. But that's not all !
My wonderful son was enlisted to help move axle onto trolley jack. This took 15 minutes just to get him of his beloved X-box and outside. Then grumbled and whinged at the weight. Typical teenager, Hrrphh, ooohh, mmmmh, why, why. Wot yer want me for. Wifey shouts time for tea young son.............great.
Problem 1.
He was worse than useless.
How I wished in an ideal world he would show some real interest in my project instead of complete indifference.
So I managed ( with his help to get it as far as the back of the car ) before he departed.
That's when the struggled started.
Problem 2.
The axle would not sit nicely on the trolley jack. It kept sliding backwards/sideways/forward/off/down/up.
Then after a brainwave I fitted the rear wheels to aid with movement.
A Master stroke..
.
.
.
.
.Not !
It was easy to push/pull but the diff was heavy (very heavy) and wanted to stay flange down.
Moved TJ to support diff flange..................better.
I needed to align a mark on the diff flange with corresponding mark on flange of propshaft.
Problem 3.
Every time I moved wheels/axle forward/back the flange on diff turned away from said mark on propshaft.
Brainwave 2.
Get scissor jack from wifeys car to support diff flange.
Problem 4
The scissor jack don't slide with the diff.
Brainwave 3
Use TJ to support diff and take weight off wheels.
Problem 5
Where the **** are the diff nuts and bolts ( I'd ground through 2 to get them off )
Eventually found and fitted without too much drama.
Moved on to fitting rear springs.
Done without too much drama.
Fit Poly bushes to rear mount and shackles.
Problem 6.
Very difficult. They kept popping out when the shackle went in.
Solved by fitting all bushes except one to shackle and ( after lots of puffing and swearing fitted it)
That was the LH side. The RH side was a different matter.
No matter what I did the poly bushes were not having any of it.
At this point I tried the same tactic as the LH side.
Still a struggle.
Finally, as I was flat on my back directly under the end of the spring hammering furiously to remove one bush.
BANG.
It dropped down on cracked me directly between the eyes.
To say It hurt a bit was an understatement !
So I rapidly packed the attempt in an went for my tea ( it was 8 p.m by this time)
A facial inspection saw a nice horizontal cut across the top of my nose, huge bruise where it initially impacted on my glabella ( lower forehead for non medical people) and a huge lump on my temple where it grazed on the way down.
So my head and face hurt a bit.
My ego is bruised since I could not wait for the brake pipes to arrive and the weekend, so I'd done the normal Fufferfour trick and rushed it a bit instead of waiting for a more appropriate time ( the weekend).
Still, I've got a FULL set of brake pipes coming ( with flared ends and unions) + diff bolts/nuts+lost nut+ rubber gaiters for brake hubs.
I'm having some time off to concentrate on getting a better class of headache by studying for Uni..

All dresed up

2010-05-03T13:33:00.000+01:00

OOOOOhh I say.

To be honest the picture doesn't do it justice. Its matt black and smooth as a babys bottom thanks to a few hours with the grinder/wire brush cup thingy.

Now for the exciting bit.....fitting it all.

where's the diff ?

2010-04-30T21:34:00.000+01:00

A fit of yet another activity saw me grinding through two of the four bolts holding the back axle/diff to the prop shaft. And that was it, away it came, albeit very heavy and awkward to drag along the drive and onto the trusty B&D workmate. In fact I had to get son No1 to help heave it skywards. The brake pipes were a swine to remove despite at least 5 soakings with penetrating fluid.
Why is it that the MG is never symmetrically easy..........or difficult.......viz the same both sides.
The wings rusted differently each side. Two prop shaft bolt came undone easily, two had to be ground off, one sides brake pipe union came off with spanner, other didn't budge. One damper spanner ed off quick as a flash, the other took some real force. One rear side window base rusted as hell, the other OK. ???????????????????????????.

Look..............Spot the back axle

Its here !!

So now I need some new copper brake pipes, the existing were marmalised during removal. Well they have been there 33 years and subject to all this fair Isles winters and summers. I'm havingg them as a birthday present !
The 3 way Brass union has cleaned up a treat and as we speak I'm fettling the axle with angle grinder/wire brush. Its then going to have the Matt black paint, so too is the fuel tank base then time for re-fitting. On second thoughts maybe I'll wire brush the roll bar and paint.
Just as I want to make progress I think/decide on more to do..........its gonna be a long summer, and painful too !

p.s the Matt black on the axle looks great...........I'll post photos soon.

Quick update

2010-04-28T10:18:00.001+01:00

Well, I ordered said replacement bushes ( Cheap from MGB hive - £ 2.95 ish) new bump stop pedestal ( £4.95, galvanised, a real bargain) & replacement rubber brake hose. They came at 8.00 am the following morning.
So, pleased with that I legged it to Halfords and bought a can of matt black brush on enamel and PENETRATING OIL ( funnily enough the product is made by WD40 brand..ha....It smells loverly, not the metallic sickly smell I remember)
My big dilemma was Halfords prices. £9 for spray on Hammerite Matte Black, £6 for own brand matte black spray, £ 7 for brush on hammerite and £4.75 own make. In a fit of economy I bought the cheapest, feeling guilty over my recent spending spree.
I've used it and am mildly disappointed. I should have bought the gloss. The parts look ok matt, but can't help thinking they would look much better gloss and be easier to clean in the future.
The big plus point is I've fitted the bushes into the spring fronts.
It was easy peasy. This was the part I was dreading. I have no garage/workshop, few tools and am apt to rushing things. However, with the use of the trusty B&D workmate, oversize socket and lump hammer they went in easy.Well a few ( lots) of well aimed blows in they crept, seated and positioned correctly.
Now it seems a shame to leave the axle and brake pipes all crusty with crud. Its not easy to get down & under to attack them in situ as well as the body underside.
So, I decided to remove the axle complete, wire brush with grinder then paint before fitting the fuel tank. Then replace the rear copper brake line.
In order to do this I have to disconnect the prop-shaft at the diff.
PROBLEM. 1/. The bolts have very short heads and the nuts don't allow to get a socket on them.
I've doused them liberally several times with penetrating oil.
PROBLEM 2/. the RH brake line came undone from the hub easy, the LH wont budge. The main problem is the fear of rounding out the flats on brake nut and diff nuts. Its only possible to get a tiny thin 1/2" spanner on them and that just spins.
So its a waiting game hoping the penetrating fluid does its stuff.

Hopefully the next post will see it all fitted and looking superdooper new like.

Onward and Inward or its spring time, literally !

2010-04-24T18:46:00.003+01:00

Oh the joys of MG ownership.

After a long bout of thriftiness, I manage to save some money towards the rear suspension, So, from three different places I bought :- set of Polybushes for rear spring shackles, lowering kit "u" bolts and spacers with attendant polybush covers, pair of chrome bumper shorter link arms and shorter rebound straps. That was a month or two ago. But being too cold to work outside, I decided to wait till the weather improved. I did have a half hearted attempt at removing the rear axle and springs. It was easy................ish. The "U" bolts nuts came away OK, so did the bottom end of the rear spring. The handbrake cable was a complete enigma on how to detatch. The rubber brake pipe mounted from the battery box union bracket to the 3 way union on the axle would not budge, either end, so I left it be. The axle is supported on a trolley jack and the car on a stout timber 4x4 with 2 axle stands. Sounds a bit illogical but that's the way it is. The front end of the rear leaf spring would not budge, either side. Neither would one link arm come away from the Armstrong damper. After one mistake viz spraying liberally with WD40, they still would not budge. TECHNICAL NOTE . WD40 is not a releasing fluid, it a water dispersant. So if you need to "soak" nuts and bolts etc use PENETRATING FLUID, like Duck oil or whatever. Thanks to Octarine Engine services for pointing that out.

So, that's what it looked like for both sides.

The RH side was probably the most difficult as the battery box and wires all impeded a good heavy swing of the trusty claw hammer. After more ( incorrect ) dousing of WD40 they ( LH & RH front spring bolts, RH drop link) still would not budge. Obvious.......................bigger hammer.

Off to brother in laws for lump/club hammer. Still no joy and still more dousing with WD40.

By this time better weather was upon us so I was going to devote a whole weekend to the jobs to do.

Besides I was itching to get the new stuff on.

Come the weekend the first job was to locate the live feed wire to the fuel pump and the earth. Their are four wires, all dirty black-ish plus a couple of dangley earth wires. I did many years ago label the wires but the elements worked their magic to make them useless. Still I'm a clever git sometimes and I've even got a multimeter ( £2.99 from Wilko's- only the best for me...hehe) and wiring diagram, so I should be able to work out the wire feed & earth. No.No.No. Even with battery connected there was no current flowing with the ignition turned on. Now here is the start of another story not yet told.....................the car immobiliser, fitted circa 1978-ish with sh** loads of red wires under the LH dash + secret on/off switch under RH dash. Methinks these have an effect on the current flowing but I'm not that much of a clever git to understand that load of spaghetti.

So we'll leave that for when I attempt the electrics proper.

For now all I wanted to know is which wire and does the fuel pump work ? I settled for the does the pump work ?

Simple answer..........................No. Rats rats and more rats. Even the recommended tap on the side didn't do the trick. I left it a day to re-think. Moved on to more nut bashing with the lump hammer. Still no joy. The LH spring mounting bracket had taken a few hits and was beginning to bend inwards. Time for some more thinking and formulating.

BBS webring and MG forum gave the answers. Loads of em. varying from use a "sawzall" ( From the U.S bless em, they mean a reciprocating linear saw blade, i.e jigsaw or power blade ) to cut the bolt heads off, to drill through the bolt ends each side. I opted for Octarines method. Use a thin grinding disc and grind up between the spring and bracket through the bolt each side. It worked a treat. Marmalised the end of the spring a little but ,hey its off and usable.

here's proof................and them bloomin bee's are back.

The spring has had a good clean up with the wire thingy in the angle grinder. Looks almost new. Gave it a liberal soaking in thin oil and cling film wrapped it till I'm ready for the next bit.

As of yet I've not tackled the other spring removal. This is only because today ( Saturday) I forgot to buy a new thin grinding disc and I'm working most of the weekend in the pub. I chilled out and caught some rays in the garden. Uni has been manic, with a 6 week placement just ended, one exam the first week,1st day back. Essay to do + another exam + Dissertation proposal hand in.

What I did do a few weeks back is :-

All the parts holding the axle were wire brushed clean using the angle grinder then primered ready for a nice coat of black paint. Top shows the spring and tools I used for the rubber bush removal. Its a composite bush inside the end. As you can see I had to destroy it to get it out. I think destroy is a little understatement. It was rusted solid and no way was it going to shift. Even if I had a press of 100 tonnes, i doubted it would have moved. The Bush is a thin outer of tough steel, a thick rubber inner then another thin steel inner. The offending bolt that would not come out was stuck to this surface. Its the rubber that causes all the problems. It does its job and resists and dampens any forces applied. I drilled several holes through the ruber and chisseled down the outer shell pushing it inwards as I went on. I bet the fitting of a new one will be even tougher. Which reminds me. I don't have a replacement. Thats why I'm working all weekend, I will need two, plus bolts/nuts and the rubber bump-stop pedestal. Mine disintegrated when the original "U" bolts came off. Anyways. Up until yeaterday I was also convinced I needed a new fuel pump. I tried several times time connect it and make it work.Stripped it down, cleaned it and the contacts, but to no avail. Not even a murmur. So, I checked You-Tube, John Twist of University motors again. These are wonderful clips from an MG man through and through. The clips show all the tricky probs and remedies for loads of mg makes. Tiz a pity its no longer in business.

This time I cleaned the testing wires thoroughly and the battery terminals. Rechecked and cleaned the points with emery and Bingo........................buzzzzbuzzzzzzbuzzzzzz. It now works a treat. So, since I have a day off from Uni Monday I'm ordering said parts + paint and next weekend will see me remove rear spring, clean it up, paint parts black, remove some ( lots) crud from axle, fit RH armstrong damper ( thats how I removed RH lever arm - with damper in situ and attacked on the bench- easy peasy) fit fuel tank and hopefully Sunday fit spring and new parts. If I can re-fit new front bushes. This is going to be a drama, I can feel it already !

Just to prove the car and project is politically correct and in line with all green issues I'm recycling as much of the car as possible. I've used the old doorskin for most of the patch panels on the rear and will be using it again for the door slider bracket. These have rusted badly and needed removal when I replaced the doorskins. I kept one to use as a template. They are handed too, so I made a paper template.

Look !

More soon folks !

Let It Snow, eh ! .........yer want more ?

2010-01-11T19:11:00.001Z

So we did have a white christmas after all. I can't honestly remember when the last one was but probably over 25 years ago. Well properly anyway. Most of the snow in the last decade has been of the very wet slushy type gone after a tiny rainfall. It still manages to disrupt things thought on almost biblical proportions. Why in the UK are we so unprepared for snow in winter, heatwaves-ish in summer, rain in autumn and insects in spring ?

Enough winges. Christmas was good (In an overindulging kind of way ) but bad for the MG. It must feel unloved and neglected, abandoned and cold over the last few months. All I've done is repair the vynyl cover and make the rear window a mesh of duck tape. After a particularly rainy, nay torrent of a downpours for a few days I noticed the rain had collected to such an extent the cover had sagged right into the spare wheel area holding about 30 gallons of water. Some expert juggling and inexperienced manipulation saw only a little spilled inside. It did happen again but not on such a grand scale so thats when I hit on the idea of how to support the cover over the gentle slope of the rear window. It may look like the base of a well upholstered seat base but its doing its job under all that snow. I do hope my worse fears of a radiator leak is not apparent after all the freezing temperatures. Its funny how you get good intentions ( I thought of this mid repair to the rear window duck tape episode) "don't forget to empty the coolant before it gets too cold". Did I ?. well you should know the answer to that by now ( NO)
Hopefully I'll be lucky ( Never) or just completely forget come spring.
Any further musings car related have been regarding the colour. I think its going to be an off shade of white......................maybe. I just scared rust bubbles will show through after the expensive respray. Some slight (very slight at last look) surface rust is showing on gutter seams over the primer. Gawd knows what its like come warmer weather. Uni/work keeps me from other thoughts, and of course the wife and kids are high maintenance at this time of year. I'll keep checking the lottery though .

I'm still here...........honest !

2009-12-21T08:59:00.001Z

So as the title says I'm as committed as ever to get the MG done, its just that I aint had the cash or fortitude to work in wind, snow & Ice out on the drive lately.
The last job I did was to partially remove the rear springs. The Axles free, that was easy peasy. The rear spring mountings were easy too. The front mountings won't budge. Despite several soakings during the Autumn in petetrating fluid the bolt will not knock out. Neither will one drop link too ??.
Fairly easy to solve though......................borrow a bigger hammer ( from B in L )
So thats how the car has stayed for the last couple of months. Under its shiney silver Argos cover. Actuallythe cover is not so good as I first thought. During some very windy days it ripped along its supposedly "welded" seams. Easily cured with a stapler and duck tape. Methinks the recent snow will preclude some more duck tape though.
Work/Placement and Uni has taken most of my time the last couple of months, that and dreaming of money.
I have worked a little, as student ambassador on open days and after christmas as barman in my local Saturday nights.
Uni is getting very intense with the following months requiring three essays and a poster plus another 12 weeks of Placement.
Roll on Summer.........................and I aint even started on the Christmas food and drink yet !

What to do next............its not that tricky

2009-09-27T17:00:00.006+01:00

( Me being attacked by a swarm of angry bee's...... for having dirty hands ?)

Yes, exactly what to do next ?.

Last post saw me having undone the rear half of the spring, undone the axle "u bolts" and one damper drop link.

Thats exatly how the situation is now, only worse.

So how can it be worse if I've not done anything ?

The situation at Uni is :-

1st week, all week, very fast paced and lots to imbibe and inwardly digest.

2nd week, easier but the real enormity of 1st week hits home with and essay to finish by end of the month.

3/. Knowing this would happen at Uni since the drop of the axle/springs, I looked up the parts and cost involved to get the back end sorted.

It went something like this :-

Plan 1/.

a/. All new bushes at the back, deffo. Poly bushes and Blue "fast road use".

b/. New "lowered" pair of leaf springs. ( to suit chrome bumper model ride height, mine was a rubber bumper model to be lowered )

c/. New Chrome bumper shorter drop link ( pair of )

d/. Spax suspension would be nice ( so would a pair of parabolic springs too) but they are all out of the question, money wise.

e/. new bumpstops top & bottom.

f/. new rebound straps.

g/. Lowering kit from MGOC

Reality after a few searches ont tinterweb..................way too expensive !!!!.

I'm not sure if the spring price was per pair or each, either way £80 is a lot.

It all came to ....................wait for it ............. £ 330 approx.

So plan 2/.

a/. as 1/.

b/. Second hand springs.....................price dunno yet

c/. Second hand drop links.................£ 5.oo each

d/. Forget............too expensive

e/. as 1/.

f/. as 1/.

g/. Is it really needed ?, some stuff can be re-used or I already have it above.

Reality.......................Still too expensive. Its just over budget.

By the way at this point it would be good to mention what my budget is - see below

NOTHING !!!

yes, thats right. I've got bugger all.

So in light of this and my new found wisdom a re-think was done. The reality is this.

a/. Poly bushes @ £ 37.00 set ( rear only) OR Std stock rubber ones ( Noooooooooooo!!)

b/. Refurb the springs ( they have sagged anyway, shorter drop links will tell)

c/. Second hand drop links £ 10.00 total

d/. Second hand rebound strap.........price......dunnoo ( but less than £10.00 total )

e/. - g/. forget.

So I might as well be planning a total new re-shell since thats about as realistic as the above when you aint got no cash.

So thats why the post is called " What to do next ". Its definitely not tricky. The answer is Nothing.

Uni will keep me busy for the next 3 weeks anyway with the dreaded assignment essay. After that the weather will turn and maybe a little too cold but much more likely too wet.

I'm determined though that its not going to be one of the dreaded "Unfinished projects" for sale.

I might have to think of ways to improve the lot of Lostsock and family, after the essy though.

More soon.

Is that an axle in your eye ? No its a leaf spring actually.

2009-09-21T13:15:00.000+01:00

What a strange title. Let me explain. You knew I would anyway.

Many years ago, when I had money, time and a restless nature I had a desire to fulfill a long lost dream. That was to restore an old car. So I looked on good old e-bay and bought an old banger from 1977, well in need of renovation and with a good supply of parts suppliers and knowledge base available. So In good old Lostsock fashion I decided to document its renovation.
That's what started me on the blog thing. Rather than take loads of photos, why not make a narrative text as well to assist others and maybe solicit some help for myself.
I did and the oddities of the chosen Blog supplier prevented me from linking both of my blogs each way.
Now the real reason for the post and a little light reflection and observation on our good old health system.
During the last few weeks prior to Uni starting I've done some work on the car. Its sort of well on the way to being finished after years of body work repair. Next job on the list was replace rear springs and bushes, clean up and paint with whatever ( Underseal, Red lead, etc)

This involved me with some time flat on my back......careful.... working spanners and hammers on nuts that have not been touched for 33 years. So, 33 years worth rust fell onto my drive during said operation, only taking a detour into my Right eye. For some months my Left eye has been odd in the morning ( Deduced by wifey to be the same cause). Insomuch as sticky eyelids and a general soreness. So after said weekend and the start of Uni saw Lostsock not his usual chirpy self. Plagued by a dull headache behind the eyes and head.
So, Monday morning saw me attend the Docs at 8 am sharp. Not to see a doctor. Simply to stand in line when the surgery opens so I could book an appointment as soon as.

Its pointless trying to telephone as it rings for ages once you get the answerphone message and options. Then appointments are for in at least 1 months time. Well not really but generally far enough away to stop people with trivial illnesses wanting to attend.
I was 4th in line at the reception desk. The desk is manned by the Practice Manager. Not a woman who would win any charm contests. So I heard all the 3 previous peoples illnesses since the PM had to ascertain to whom to send them ( Nurse, Doctor or Room for arguments) , their age and date of birth and their address.
So What happened to patient confidentiality then ?................
Is the P.M medically trained ?....................methinks not ( Hope the Practice is Insured )

It didn't help when the guy in front of me insisted he needed his blood testing because his wife is Ill ???????????? and they didn't do it at the hospital last night because he'd he fainted. Is this a breach of confidentiality ?. There's been lots posted on various sites regarding this topic and say, Facebook. A certain Government ministers wife revealed some potentially sensitive details... allegedly. Some excellent medical related sites have even closed down voluntarily for fear of the dreaded Confidentiality police. Hope they don't come knocking for me...............errrrrrrrhemmmm.

But seriously, should we have to do this ?. I fully understand why the Practice Manager is a sourpuss ( The general Public...) but it should still not be allowed for the jaded, impatient and almost rude to be people facing. Neither should Non medically trained staff be making clinical decisions. Don't you agree ?. Could we do it as radiographers , i.e I.D patients in the waiting area. No. Tell them they have a nasty break ?. No. I am full of praise for all aspects of our wonderful NHS. It is still the envy of the world, has some great people and services. It is Europe's biggest employer and thereby is its problem. Its very difficult to employ 100% perfect and professional people. Unfortunately its the minority that stick in peoples minds. I for one am determined not to be a whingeing employee. Its depressing anyway listening to some people whingeing to others.

I have Conjunctivitis by the way so my vision today is a little cloudy................heeee heee. That's because there's been most of a 1977 British Leyland axle and leaf spring in it the last few months ( Nay years).

2009-09-09T08:35:00.001+01:00

A New Winter Coat

2009-08-30T15:43:00.002+01:00

Not much activity MG wise. The weather and wifeys constant nagging re D.I.Y list has taken priority. What days off I had was devoted to either a nice long walk in the fine weather or resting. I must admit I wasted several days doing god knows what. The hours flew by and I can't remember anything. Only being annoyed at wasting time on nothing.

The MG has a new winter coat. £15 from Argos. Its fully waterproof, fits like a dream and has elasticated corners. Ever since I took out the rear window to repair the seams and lip its been kind of vulnerable to water ingress. The Blue poly sheets I've been using had eventually become porous, kept coming loose and generally were a real pain to remove/fasten up. Not helped by the fact the giant ( Not an understatement, its about the size of a tennis court) outer blue cover was ripped to shreds, full of holes and becoming snagged on every corner of the MG. The new under cover over the rear window just sagged into the tailgate space due to the weight of rain water collected so I had to be careful how I dragged the cover off. After several times of complaining about some of the water ingress wifey suggested the Argos catalogue ( She has up to date catalogues of every consumer selection on the planet) Well, we have no money so why not dream and spend the imaginary lottery millions. I don't think I'd shop at Argos if i did though.
It seems strange to be saying "winter coat" since its the last Sunday in August and the weather this month has been rubbish. Not hot and settled at all. Generally sunny with some rain and scudding clouds & wind, changeable and average. Where oh where have the long, hot and lazy summers of my childhood gone ?
Here it is covered, as I've just finished a couple of hours between D.I.Y'ing.

Below shows the end plates of the Rubber bumper mounting removed. I intend to convert to chrome bumpers so theses must come off. Its not as straight forward as you think to convert a RB car to chrome bumpers. It now leaves the longitudinal chassis end plate open so I can chop off about 2" ( 50mm) back inside the grill opening ( to allow the fitting of a grille) of the top half, the bottom half needs only be cut back to be behind the valence when fitted. A plate is then welded to the top half to re-cover the section and a nut welded somewhere to hold the bumper bracket.

Then, the lower valence has to have its two square holes ( where the above mounts poked through) welded up.
The wings have to have two square holes filled in and new square hole cut to suit the light fitting with chrome surrounds.
If you can remember the RB cars have the lights( Indicators) integral into the bumper and are larger than chrome bumper cars.
The rear needs the pointy body extensions under the lights ( done when I fitted the rear wings yonks ago). A conversion mount can be bought cheaply to fix the mountings and bumper.

Fortunately I have most of the stuff bought in the mists of time from E-bay and collected
from various parts of the country back when I was travelling this fair isle.

Incidentally, here is a list of places I've travelled to collecting my E-bay purchases :-

Enfield . North London...............................MGB-GT purchase...............................£180
Doncaster ( S.Yorks)........LH & RH sills/castle rail/jacking points and x-member.....£35
Harlow ( Essex)..................................MIG welder.........................£60
Mitcham ( Surrey)..............................Front chrome bumper & lights.............£15
Somewhere north of Wolverhampton miles from anywhere...... rear chrome bumper ....£10
Slough (Berks).........complete roof section......£10............still in storage at former employers ?
Dewsbury ( W Yorks)...........pair doors ....£15 .......Rubbish, never used, in shed I think.
Belper (Derbys).....................doorskin..............................£ 25
Doncaster ( S Yorks ) Head gasket set....................£8
Chesterfield ( Derbys).................Chrome bumper front springs.....................£10
Liverpool (Merseyside ).........Oil cooler & pipes........£15 ( Scouser Jim collected, ex colleague)

And that's not counting the trips to MGOC (many), MGB Hive (three), Mechspec( two) & Watford MG for proper purchases with real money for NEW stuff. Or stuff bought on E-bay that's been posted ( Mostly tools but did include VW golf repair rim for wheel arch) and "other" stuff generally purchased on E-bay.
I might like to add that I am not being paid by E-bay for all this promotion. of their wonderful product. A donation would be appreciated though !

More soon.

Homeward stretch

2009-08-10T11:43:00.007+01:00

Well I've almost reached the point where all the bodywork is complete.
As we speak all that is left is :-

1/. Sand down filler in tailgate gutter and prime
2/. Tack weld boot/wheel-arch repairs to strengthen and add some seamsealer
3/. wire brush and paint ( Hammerite- Ku rust, its brill at killing rust) tailgate inner lower lip
4/. fill and sand hole in picture now rear screen is removed.
5/. Drill out snapped bolts in front upper valence mounting captive nuts.
6/. Maybe..............only maybe, re-position front indicator mounting holes in valence,
7/. Chop off old bumper chassis leg plates ( so a chrome bumper mount can be attached)

Not bad eh !! most of the above can be achieved in the next session. if the weather of our glorious summer holds out.
Spent the last two good days helping brother in law lay vast quantities of cement for his new patio. An we aint done yet.

Below are the photos mid repair of the top RH tailgate gutter.
LH side is fine RH side poor with BIG hole

So I set too thinking....................how the hell do I repair that !
I actually spent more time thinking why did it rust there and how ??
BL cars are really amazing, they rust in all the expected places usually, them that don't rust in all the weird places and not symmetrically.
Anyways, decided since this part is not seen i would weld some thin steel over and fill to a smooth finish.

Here are the tools of the trade for weird shapes.

Sorry for the "break" in the post..................Monday above ^ Wednesday below

Its very important to use only "Shredded wheat" cardboard , as this is never missed when you spirit away the box and leave behind the bag since no-one ever bothers eating the healthy stuff.
On a serious note though, label the template front face/rear as its easy to cut a Mirror Image of what you want.
One snag is I forgot to take a photo of the finished article, since its had its plates welded on, ground down, filled and sanded ( Twice)
I have also filled and sanded the tailgate outer edge and Ku-rusted and red leaded inside lower edge + covered in primer.
Below is foot-wells cleaned out, swept and Vac blown.
By Vac Blown I mean I used the trusty B&D leaf blower/sucker. God is it powerful.
Its like a hurricane and blows all debris into the stratosphere.

The dreaded rubbery compound sound deadening type stuff on the floor is horrible. Its about 1/4" thick and either comes up in chunks or like soft sticky toffee. So I'm leaving it in where its sound.Besides its too much time, bother and expense to remove. Trouble is what can I replace the removed bits with ? Anyone got a spare bitumen lorry load of it, warm and ready for pouring ? Red leaded the previous welds (Again) after another Ku-rust treatment.

Decided not to weld the rear boot corners/infills. I'm going to fill with copious amounts of seal sealer. I did also drill out the one seat runner bolt head that sheared on removal a few years ago. It took 3x 4mm drills ( Damn, just bought them too), angle grinder + 6mm drill + mole grips+350 squirts of WD40 in the end, but its out clean (ish). My tactic was to file the screw head flat (mistake) it was 5mm tall off the floor. I ground it down lower, flush to floor ( after drill break no 3) then started the hole with the last 3mm drill(till that broke) then all the way down with the 6mm. Underneath I ground 2 flats on the 8mm length poking out and gripped with moles and Presto ( all this took about 40 minutes and a bit of cursing)

So next is removing the Rubber bumper mounting plates at the front and those pesky captive nuts with half a bolt in them on the lower edge of the valence/body join.

I did also start up the car again, using a makeshift fuel directly into the carbs....WD40 !!!

GREAT<<<<<<<<<< IT SOUNDS LIKE A SOPWITH CAMEL BI-PLANE !!!!!!!

It turned over for a few seconds and the oil pressure is good.

I did video the occasion but Blogspot prevents me from uploading for some reason. Maybe next time then when I've worked out the fuel pump wiring and actually put real fuel in.

What Colour ................tell me what you think

2009-08-02T20:08:00.007+01:00

Well as the title says I've been giving this some thought, over the last 4 years actually.

The car was originally white ( Old English or Triumph White ) according to the log book and MG archives.

At some stage early on in its life it was given a very thorough respray to black. Even the engine bay ( Including wiring !!) rear tailgate inside and boot, door pillars /windows inside and bonnet underside.

Logic and common sense says make it back to original white. I think maybe so. Wifey saw a brand new re shelled Roadster at the MG hive last year in Old English White and loved it.

I'm not so sure as its a very yellowish white and it will really show up any panel gap errors.

I did see at the weekend a Fiat 500 in brilliant Blueish white. This looked really dazzling and I'm not sure if it was a White or very Pale brilliant light Blue, it still looked good though.

Below is a V8 example in Glacier white

I've decided that the car will be converted to chrome bumper and lowered back to standard or a little lower. However what type of grille ?. The above sports the later type ( 1970's).

There is a sixties style which I'm fancying as shown on the Bermuda Blue example car below.

This is how I envisage mine without the wire wheels and front over riders for a cleaner look.

I must admit the blaze red does look good though.

But having said that I do like the dark Midnight Blue below. Mine even has the large Chrome sill protectors and Rostyles too, plus it would hide any poor panel gaps.

Or could it be Black as it is/was now ? Shown is the older style grille and wire wheels.

I hate wire wheels, they always look dirty, must be a pain to clean and constantly need checking for loose spokes.

I suppose to keep the retro 60's look the colour should be pewter-ish ala 007's DB5 or even silver. But No, and here's why.

During my stint as a traffic surveyor recently and during the hours we got to sit down to count traffic i did my own car colour survey, By far the most common color was silver, or a variant of light blue/ green- silver, followed by Red then Black and Blue with Green last but fairly even with White. I did not count the weird colours like the Peugeot 80's Gold ingot type of aberration or the new Ford RS whatever with its bile/vomit green ( and JCB Yellow) aka 1970's glam or the boy racer pearlescent " I did this myself" paint jobs. I did see a rather attractive Brown on a Toyota Avensis ( oh.... how I miss mine) though and thought good, its nice to see one manufacturer breaking the mould a little. But not for my MG.

So What colour then...................It would be nice to hear your thoughts.

wheel clean

2009-07-28T17:45:00.007+01:00

So another post, in fact two in a week. Must be a record.

Actually wifeys painting kitchen door and I've just cut the grass and done two sets of taxi -ing( Depositing kids where they want to go) so I had an hour or so pottering with the MG.

There were two reasons I tackled the spare wheel.

1/. Each time I venture into the shed at the bottom of the garden ( frequently) I see the forlorn spare wheel resting gently against the fence by the shed door. It sits there gathering leaves and fir debris as well as pine cones and general crud. Its still well inflated after years, and has been subject to a pretty poor refurb some time in its past.

2/. During said taxi-ing I deposited old newspapers in the town centre car park recycling bins. There opposite parked on the road was a lovely Red BGT with black roof, "T reg" and looking splendid with shiny Rostyle wheels.

So despite the plans I had originally made ( Fix hole in tailgate gutter & red lead floors) I set to with the wire brush in angle grinder.

Here are the before pictures.

Then some time later, after a visit to local motor factors ( I needed more primer and new goggles) a newish looking wheel was beginning to emerge.

Behold,

A little panic set in since no sooner had I finished the outside wheel to nice an almost chrome-ish finish the clouds came over very black and it started spitting with rain. So wifey was pressed into service shaking the can for the regulation 2 minutes ( She's excellent at making a noise) whilst I tidied the tools away and got the car cover/s back on loosely.

Only a few spots fell and I managed to get a good coverage of primer on as you can see.

Its by no means the finished article yet. I just wanted to see how far I could go without removing the tyre. In fact very far. The tyres whilst fully inflated and kept that way for the last three years, need replacing as the sidewalls are all cracked. I did manage to mangle the valve a little

with some not so subtle touches from the grinder/wire brush anyways.

The plan is when new boots all around are required for the m.o.t they will be removed then the wheels can be prepped and spray painted the correct silver and black with a clear lacquer for good measure. I'm not sure yet if i will attach some chrome surrounds for the wheels. I may have to depending how happy I am with my efforts at wheel re-finishing.

I also bought some correct type fuel hose and attached it to the pump & fuel tank unit.

Gosh wash it tough. Its very thick and the hole seemed very small compared to its wall thickness. Even after a good steep in boiling water ( whilst I cleaned kitchen floor, ahemmm

I spilt a whole cup onto the floor attempting to carry the hose in cup + my own coffee)

So. twenty minutes later the hose was on and I,m ready for fuel.

Not yet really, I need to weld the gutter patch directly above filler spout in boot.

But soon............................very soon !

Admiralty, Enemy, Rival, Fallen & Angel..............

2009-07-26T07:40:00.010+01:00

All follow or proceed ARCH(ES) .......................( OK the last one stretched it a bit )

Before we go further........I passed all my exams................Yippee !!

So Arches, or arch to be precise. I've finally finished the patchwork quilt of welding the lip of the arch inner - outer section. It was a swine. The main problem being the wheel hub right in the most awkward place imaginable. Your head needs to be there to see what you are doing and get out of the way of all the falling crud ( and grinding sparks and welding sparks). Its very difficult to get a head covered with welding mask in there and weld. It was managed albeit with some bird poo type welding in parts, lots and lots of stray sparks behind the mask ( it makes you leap around a bit) head wedged and stuck in position, mouths full of 32 year old crud and sparks falling onto your arms and chest. Yes they hurt too.

As proof see the photos below, labelled looking out from the ( left rear) arch.

Bear in mind the camera was easy to position as its small. My head+welding mask is not.
I,m rather proud of this and the composite layout ( done in paint) .
You will see in the centre the view of the tailgate section. Yes it still is a shed/tool storage space since I've long since run out of storage locations.
However, most of it will be spirited away somewhere whilst I work on the floors inside.
Bodywork wise its just about done. There is one 50p piece hole in the top RH corner of the tailgate gutter ??? and a pencil sized hole just under the rear screen rubber at the 5 o'clock position with a little more underlying rust ,so the rear windscreen is coming out soon. The rubber surround is awful anyway, very brittle and scabby. The chrome trim will be cut out, polished up and re-used.
Methinks that with a respray its imperative to have new front/rear rubbers ( fitted after respray, obviously)

AND, to continue the good news a small windfall from the tax man has allowed me some cash for the next stage. What shall be the next stage ?. I guess I must attach the fuel tank, fuel line and work on getting the engine turning over at least. This part worries me as I see it as a potentially frustrating part. Auto electrics, carb balancing, mixture adjustment all will play a part in the life of one happyish student Radiographer over summer.
Since the money is there and not needed for the above work I guess I may buy Poly bushes for the front suspension, and give each side a overhaul and refurb. I have a pair of lower springs bought on e-bay last year (£ 5/pair, if i remember correctly).

So, I must fit for now, the accelerator pedal and cable, but first wire brush the floors and red lead them.

Soon, with a little luck I may be able to drive it under its own power..............oh joy oh joy.

Bad news is wifeys on D.I.Y overdrive with the cash windfall. So far I've painted the bathroom ( twice) and toilet. She's offered to paint the kitchen. This is a sneaky feminine tactic. She's terrible at painting but denies it. However she knows I will offer to do it after making a bo****ks of her first attempt. In fact she visited B&Q.....!! EVERY DAY!! this week for one thing or another ( matchpots x 30,0000, bathmat, wallpaper [ not purchased, painted existing instead, twice] paving [n/p], look at bathroom suites, brushes.........I eventually refused to visit the last time, instead feigning a headache from all the paint fumes........two can play that game !!!!!!!

2009-07-14T18:55:00.002+01:00

Hello All

Big delay in posting. Simple reason really. I've been swatting for my exams. What with that and the recent hot/sunny spell my mind has been elsewhere.
The exams are over and boy were they tough. The hardest part though is the waiting for the results. At least another week yet posted on the Uni website.

After a bit of DIY ( Bathroom painting) the wifey decided the colours wrong. Damn.
I spent the whole of one rather hot and sunny day ( yesterday, my first official day off) getting it done for when she returned. Only to find out she now wants the walls painting since they don't quite match the new paint. I might add at this point we BOTH agreed on the colour, even if we did buy it several months ago.
Of course in my life there has to be some engineered Ying & Yang, so I spent today welding on the MG with a sulky face whenever wifey appeared. I tackled the last inner, outer wing part.
I had started to use an new VW repair section cut up into sections. This is working well, however grinding the inner wheelarch with the wheel hub in the way is a real pain. Still most of it is done now. Only one section to fit in and a couple of patches then done.
Soon I will be fitting the remaining fuel line, tank and throttle cable/pedal. Before this though I will give the floors ( drivers and passengers) a good rotary wire brush and coat with red lead.
The rain has been leaking in a bit and left lots of surface rust.
The comes the big fire up...........................yipeeeeee !!
I have a feeling that the electronic ignition and/or the immobiliser fitted will cause me a few headaches though. Wiring and fault finding/understanding is not one of my strong points.

Ohh......I almost forgot. I did three days as a traffic census officer directly after the exams so I have a little extra cash. Not much though as I have spent some on a new pair of walking boots.
Yes I know its a little sad, but walkings free, it get me healthy and why not use the peak district since I'm/we are only 15 minutes away.

I will post pictures when the above stuff is done and I've given it a celebratory drive up/down the culdesac.

More progress

2009-06-09T13:14:00.004+01:00

Hello folks.

The nice weather and a lull in studying has seen a little progress on the MG.
I deferred getting the engine going till I can afford some special fuel hose and Imperial nuts/bolts for the fuel tank.
The rear LH wheel arch was still needing work (inner wheel arch- outer portion ) .
I had put off attempting this for a long time since, read below.
I did actually buy a repair section from the MG hive last year, £60 , for my birthday, along with several other panels.
However at the time, I'd already cut the rust away and fitted the complete real rear wing over it. But, then I make a complete novice error. I realised I'd bought the WRONG side rear repair section. It was a right outer - inner section, I needed and I had a left. Hay hoe.
So i did use it on the correct arch several months ago, see much earlier post, and remembered it was a swine to do.

Nevertheless, I set to full of determination.
I had no money but some enthusiasm. It was all i could do.
With rear jacked up and head in small confine of wheel arch. I should say that I had to roll the car onto the road, reverse and push back tuther way into drivespace ,so its pointing the other way, again. Thank you Son No 1.
I'll hammer some sections to fit. Three of four pieces curved round, lipped and curved the other way should be simple enough.
I even went green and recycled the old doorskin to use for said patches.
I had a set of the correct hammers and dollies- no guesses where I bought them from !
How hard can it be ?
After at least 2 hours............. simples !.................VERY VERY HARD. I gave up. Almost.

Then I remembered.

In a moment of e-bay purchasing way back when I was employed and in full control of our finances I did buy one VW GOLF ( Rabbit for our colonials ) outer left wheel arch repair,

WHY I hear you ask ?

Well look further down at the lovely Maroon example. It looks fantastic with very subtle flared wheel arches. I contacted the owner and he gave me the details. Mk 3 Golf rear arches are a near perfect fit for all MG arches. So i bought one. £20 from the usual source.
I had a brainwave........not often i get one but a good one at that.
If it is turned arse about face and maybe cut into 3 or 4 sections a new inner arch could be fabricated.
Why not. correct shape with lip. right curve. clean. smooth free and available.
To press I've done two of the four sections and left them there clamped in-situ.
What is horrible is using the wire wheel cup on the grinding machine. Flat on back looking straight up at almost invisible ( since my goggles are rather scratched and contrast of sky and dark wheel arch make it impossible) edge with a fine mist of 33 year old underseal coating my mouth, hair, eyes, nose and teeth. It was about 10 inches from my forehead, so a slip would have really spoilt my day. I'm scared enough of the grinder as it it anyway.
I looked like I'd been down a mine for months, ergghhhh. And there's still more to do, then weld.
Next post will be photo of job done, hopefully.

Once my exams are over I'll crack on and do as much as possible to get the rolling restoration underway. I reckon I need :-

6 rattlecans of primer
Fuel line - tank to sender
Fuel tank nuts/bolts
RH wing bolts
Rear springs - Lowered type
Small drop arms- rear
Complete Poly bush set
Front Brake discs and pads
Rear brake pads
Front chrome windscreen surround
Front windscreen rubber
Rear screen rubber
Door rubbers
Tailgate rubber surrounds.
Seam sealer

The rest I can live without for the now rolling resto. I hate the seventies Orange/brown/white stripes of the seats though.

That all as far as I know........................................!!!
Yes it is quite a lengthy list. But this time 3 years ago it was unthinkable i could even make a list.

So just a small problem of 3 exams to pass, summer job to find and I'll be making real progress.

It makes you think..............really !!

2009-05-16T13:05:00.002+01:00

I came across this whilst surfing tuther day and it impressed, scared & inspired me all at the same time.

Watch it and see what you think.......its regarding technology and the pace of life.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL9Wu2kWwSY&feature=player_embedded

A dull spark can have its moments

2009-05-07T20:27:00.003+01:00

Well well people, after lots of hurried excitement and climax/anti-climax the MG has turned its crankshaft in anger and fired up all four cylinders, albeit momentarily.
I paint a serene and planned scenario.......................................................................not.
I planned to get the water hoses and fuel hoses on last bank holiday week, plus the oil connection pipe/union to the oil pressure gauge. This did not go well. I had to wait for the latter to be posted, it arrived well after the bank holiday. Even worse, when fitting the fuel hose ( Pump unit to manifold ) i found the hose 2" ( 50mm) too short !!
Not to worry, whilst all this was resolved by some telephone calls and waiting I set too ordering a battery ( Wifeys birthday prezzie to me). Gawd almighty It arrived the next day, it cost £33 + £9.99 delivery, it was the correct spec, and a single bank holiday was approaching to co-incide with said birthday.
What a let down. The battery was flat as a fart. Nil pwa. zero volts. even less amps.
Even tried connecting brother in laws battery charger and waiting 10 hours..............nothing
It just had to wait till my exams were over the following week and I could call the vendor.
I had a shock somewhat when I looked up the vendors seller rating ( yes it was E-bay again,and i know I should have done this BEFORE purchasing) but it was pants. Nevertheless, when contacted they sent a replacement and it was received today ( the very next day ).
Connected up and bingo.................no not firing but engine turning and willingly turning.
After a couple of hours convinced there was no spark then the coil was faulty then the silicone leads not showing continuity I eventually summoned assistance. Son No 1 came to help ( yes and without being bribed) I had some unleaded in a plastic container down the shed ( been there for about 2 years ). So pouring some fuel into the plastic see through filter and into the carbs it looked more of a possibility. But still no fire or spark.
Then I thought back to the great Mark Evans, or more precisely the bloke from stoke who sprayed something highly flammable into the carbs. I did the same whilst son turned the key.

Bingo................ firing, smoke, oil pressure, water pumping( somewhere) , alternater turning, son terrified, dad beaming and running round drive giggling & crying.

It died after a few seconds due to the solvent being used up, however it goes to show the fuel was at fault all the time.......not the lack of spark, timing, incorrect assembly of anything, stupid owner or shagged out coil.
So the crappy fuel was poured into the daily driver and the MG tank will be assembled and filled sort of at the weekend for a more measured attempt. I need to buy a proper fuel line though as I ain't replaced the short one yet ( Man a MechSpec did say at the time it might not be long enough)

So things are moving forward at a pace now..................except the cash.

An update....... and real progress

2009-04-25T12:17:00.005+01:00

Its been so long that I have forgot where I left off last time.

Anyways, the thermostat sent back to the MGOC ( and oil gauge pipe) that got lost in the post is now resolved.

After a little windfall from the good old NHS Bursary dept I purchased from MechSpec

:- thermostat housing ( £ 5.50 and second hand, new from MGOC is £16.00)

brass plug to suit, I think I must have thrown the "saved" one away or can't find it.

Top and bottom water hoses,

braided oil gauge pipe with unions,

braided fuel pipe ( pump to tank ).

Unfortunately fuel pipe and brass plug for thermostat was not in stock so I had to wait a few days for them to be posted. This gave me a few days of good weather during the recent Easter break to crack on since Uni had 2 weeks off.......yipee.

During this period I managed to sand down the front RH lower wing where I welded on a large repair panel. I even added more filler and sanded down again to get a reasonable finish. I really hate filling and sanding. There is still a little more work to do on the wing but this requires its removal so I left it to get on with the fuel tank, hoses and heater.

The heater required a brackett at the base welding. It opens/closes a flap to direct the hot air ( Do MG's have hot air ???) It also needed the foam insulation for the mini radiator in the heater body and specially shaped foam to insulate the two pipe exits from the heater.

The welding part was easy, the foam bits not so. I had run out of money to buy these from Mechspec or elsewhere and was thinking of visiting my lovely towns Fri morning market. I know there is a " Foam Stall" frequented I guess by budding upholsterers and bedmakers, but he was not there. recession and all that. So in a dutiful fit of Saturday morning shopping in town I did my usual wander around Wilko's.

Below is a view of the unmolested heater.

Where the cable disappears to is the brackett that needed welding. The cable goes into a hard ( but very perished ) shaped foam seal. The rest of the foam seals were on the base and around the inside body to insulate the mini radiator. After lots of cleaning and ages of rooting around the shed, swearing and a pop to ma in laws for wifey's soldering iron ( Don't ask )

So, a fantastic piece of inspiration saw me buy 3 x cleaning sponges for 32p each , one "tuff" sponge for £1.35 and 4 x jubilee clips for 64p total . Grand Total = £ 2.95. Some careful cutting with a very sharp craft knife and the heater was almost sorted. A coat of gloss black on the front face ( used wifey's Black gloss Acrylic spray from one of her thousands of arty stores, .i.e plastic carrier bags, secreted in hiding places around the house)

See the finished attempt below.

This pleased me enormously as I must have saved a fortune in overpriced foam seals from the MGOC. And And. I remember the heater was very very difficult to remove due to the "toughness" of the two pipe special sponge, so it should all go back together much more easily.

Another good piece of progress was the fuel tank. It had been sort of covered up by the side of the shed for a few years and I expected it to be beyond repair and full of pinholes.

No way............It had been undercoated from new and after a good clean up with the electric wire brush it looked almost new. Only one tiny pinhole on the top surface near the filler spout. I remedied this with a good spot of Araldite and a complete coating of red lead plus the remainder of the Black acrylic spray liberated from wifey's store.

Now its stopped raining I'm hoping to fit all this lot in readiness for buying a battery next week. Fill up with the correct oil, add water, connect fuel line and bingo...fun time starts.

Yipee, its my Birthday treat so then I may actually get to fire her up. I think that is where the title of the blog comes from since this part may be the most frustrating.

More soon.

p.s forgot to add I cleaned up bonnet ( top and bottom) and sprayed it and RH doorskin + RH wing ( again) with grey primer

Much to tell.................but later today !! Watch these first whilst I'm busy

2009-04-25T08:47:00.002+01:00

Meanwhile............................here's the sexiest thing to have ever been invented.............!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Vk4RiEMLY8

.............................................................And the funniest

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dpZ4BPsLZI

More very soon

Hello Strangers

2009-01-25T12:02:00.003Z

Again not much has happened MG wise as I've been very busy and ill again over the festive period.

I did manage to send the thermostat housing and other bits back to the MGOC with covering letter for replacement. However, being so busy I've not had time to phone and place my order/pay. Its almost the end of jan and I hope they have not thrown it away.
As soon as the weather improves my intention is to refurb the heater and get it in place, fit aforementioned housing and hoses, fill with oil and water then fire it up. Ohh errr it sounds easy to say, but bet the reality takes a few more months and lots of cursing.
I am looking forward to the break from placement come easter and hopefully I will not be ill this time. Since we are well and truly skint I can put lots of time into the MG doing things I've put off last summer.
Next week is the households official payday ( happens every two months/ don't ask, its to do with bursary payments and child benefit) so i may visit the pub for the first time this year and see feckless mate Chris for a laugh and giggle and swap rude jokes.

Just for Matt and chums

2008-11-04T19:53:00.003Z

Matt

Cannot say too much as the site is linked to the radiography Blog.
Since I'm now an "Elth proffffffesshunal" my identity must remain annony-mouse. ( Just in case I say/let slip something I should not)

So send me your e-mail address ya dolt, then we may converse properly like.

Regards LostSock

Some Non news

2008-11-02T13:48:00.003Z

Well folks I thought I'd post, post about nothing really.

The MG has not moved or gone any rustier I think. I did spend some time attaching a thick clear polythene to the front window and side windows in preparation for the cold winter.
Normally the two large Blue poly covers are usually enough to keep out the water, however on the last few excursions under the cover I have seen a large puddle of water collecting in one of the many poly boxes storing stuff inside.
It serves me right, I should not have removed the windscreen before I was ready to.
Still, it gave me good exercise since I had done a clear out of the shed and outhouse.
Thus finding Duck tape and thick clear poly sheet.

I have a Job..............................................a butchers dog/gopher

Since the big change in my circumstances, then even bigger shock with good old Tax office ( Don't get me started...................................Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr)
I decided to help our Christmas be less bleak and earn some dosh.
Hopefully some MG type goodies wend their way my way or at least I can afford to save for some suspension bushes.
Hope I get the time to post as I'm going to be rather busy up to the festive period.

p.s comments are welcome as they usually cheer me up !!!

Its getting there, their, they're

2008-10-20T16:59:00.003+01:00

Had a good couple of good sessions the last few weeks under the bonnet.

Things MG wise have taken a bit of a back seat, obviously.

Prior to the big decision I did manage to visit another MG part retailer "darn sarf" and bought some oil cooler pipes and petrol pipe unions ( might as well have been Onions......see later )

+ second hand heat shield for carbs.

Retailer- ere, this ull fit...... ( When asked if they have said heatshield)

Me - It looks a lot different... ?

Retailer - naw, they all fit, just slightly redesigned....

Me - how do you undo the oil cooler nut when its sheared on the cooler matrix thread ?

Retailer - Need a torch guv, an plenny of eat...

Me - Won't that melt the ( rubber) pipes ( within 1" of union )

Retailer - scuttles away to answer some unheard cry from out back

Retailer # 2 , That'll be £22.55 please

Anyways, that lot of bits stayed hidden in my desk drawer till wifey came to do the dreaded receipts and finances ( she now knows where to look to find the receipts..........my eyes !!!!)

Since all the ancillaries had been cleaned during summer, I had the relevant gaskets ( bought months ago from Mechspec via good ole E-bay) and now I had all the parts.....whopeee

So, fitted the gaskets x 4, spacer x 2, more gaskets under heatshield, heatshield ( after good cleanup with wire brush in drill) Bracket onto heatshield to hold carb throttle union, 3 lower springs and the two carbs. It took a bit of working out on how to fit the two mechanical linkages

and some flicking through the photos and books, but job done.

I should say at this point the previous "good session" I had fitted the inlet manifold, exhaust manifold + gasket, cleaned up the mounting studs and attached with liberal coatings of copper grease.

The fuel union recently purchased was crap. It fits between each carb. It looks good, being braided steel outer, with SS jubilee clips at each end but......................it was too short !!!!!

So I cleaned up the old one and re-used the existing springy clips.....they look as good as new.

This was the only ( union) thing I was sure would be O.K from " darn sarf" so an ONION would have been as good.

The heatshield did fit fine though, so the trip and cash was not wasted.

I still have to get another thermostat housing from the MG owners club as the last one purchased is still not the correct one.

What makes this difficult is I'm not trolling up and down this fair isle anymore so it will have to be good ole Mr Postman. And a top water hose is also required and an oil pressure pipe union (x2) which sheared on undoing.

The oil cooler and hoses are in place and finished, the fuel overflow pipes also.

So, soon I will be able to refit the fuel tank, re-connect electric sender unit, fill with lifefluids and try starting her up......................................................perhaps.

I'll have to give some time and effort in to what I think I might have forgot.

I have a feeling that I may have to re-fit the dashboard first which means connecting the heater vents which means fitting the heater which means re-furb to heater which means finding lost vent trim and so on.

Who said it was going to be easy.

At least i have ALL of next week off................more then, possibly.

Above are the Heatshields...........are they the same ? ( yes they both fit !!!)

All Change.................slow,slow ,stop.

2008-09-29T19:09:00.005+01:00

Well its finally come to pass.
Yes I bit the bullet and handed in my notice.
Not shared with you on the blog was my restlessness to do something different, to help people and to sleep in my own bed every night.
So three years ago I embarked on an access course at the local college with the aim of applying for a place on a Radiography course. I never thought I would be offered a place. The courses are very over subscribed and its not your usual "student life". Being medical the course is very tough with 3 years academic study and 3 years on placement all crammed into 3 years !!
I thoroughly enjoyed the access course and would reccomend it to anyone, even if its just for fun.
I ended up with the equivalent of 3- 1/2 A levels ( I added extra units to enhance my chances of selection) The people were like me ( older) all had busy lives and jobs and we all had collective whinges, fun and a great sense of camarardarie ( spelling!!)

It was a tough decision to make when I discovered I had been offered a place. It involved all the family and everyone has had to make sacrifices. I must admit this was very tough for the wife as she's the worrying type and was at her wits end over the decision.
However, I will do all I can not to let anyone down over the next three years.

So the restoration will go even slower now. Finances are stretched to breaking point so I may have to resort to begging and borrowing.....................I'm good at this though.

I will miss my friends and associates from work, the company car, laptop ( now replaced with new one with a FULL KEYBOARD- note KL) expense account, mobile phone, whining customers, hours of e-mails ( replaced with hours of essays) motorway traffic jams, M25, A14, M1, A12, A405, Slough , Jedburgh and last but not least all the comfortable little offices I had dotted around the UK ( Motorway service stations to the un-initiated )
I will reallly miss the large Wild bean cafe Latte's that kept me sane.

Another positive note is I've stopped smoking at last, and kept the alcohol units under 15 for most of the last few weeks........................here's to a healthy lifestyle.
Well I could hardly be let loose in hospitals as an Oliver Reed apprentice could I .

So expect in the coming months some restoration fun, a few stories of acadedmic life and other hospital related tales from a student radiographer.
Please note that since I'm now a professional in the health service I'm expected to behave like one. Back to the old lifestyle then ??????? I'll let you know.

Restoration wise I'm afraid I have left a little gap in proceedings.
What is done is as follows :-
All of bodywork, except :- Rear inner wing repair section, sanding of F- RH lower wing repair section, Bonnet clean up, Rear tailgate clean up, chop off front chassis ends to accomodate chrome bumper mounts. Weld in captive nuts.

Engine :- Fit carbs & manifold. Buy two new hoses for cooling system. Fit oil cooler hoses + gauge pipe ( broken when removing former) refurb and fit heater box.

Suspension :- Inspect, clean, rebush, fit lower springs ( got on e-bay) Front & Back

Well you get the picture, its coming along nicely. But so is winter !!!

Any donations gratefully recieved.

Back to Black..........hopefully not

2008-08-27T18:37:00.005+01:00

Well, technically black is not a colour, but it is for the purposes of my vehicles previous owner is must have been a very attractive and desirable colour.
I say this because I spent the best part of four hours removing some/most of the stuff liberally covering anything remotely not chrome plated in the engine bay.

Lets start at the beginning of this topic though.
The cylinder head is on and looks, well..............not like it did before.
Before everything in the engine bay was either dark oily greasy black or covered in "horsehair" fluff from the shedding of the under bonnet lid protection.
Actually everything was covered in both. So thats why the cylinder head now looks like a cylinder head. Albeit still has some small corners still holding onto the black paint applied at some stage. The Ally intake manifold was the same. This however could take a lot more aggresion being lighter than the C.H.

The carbs were next on the list for re-furb. They looked awfully dark and "fluffy".
Trouble was meths,white spirit, petrol & thinners didn't touch them.
A trip to the local boy racers heaven ( Motor Factors, full of wheels,graphic equilisers, polish and LED lights ) and a large spray can of "Carb Cleaner" purchased, together with spray on engine de-greaser.

Well they both worked a treat and did exactly what they said on the tin.
The carbs look .................well again almost new. I enjoyed cleaning the carbs. I sat down the drive under the shade of a tree, jacksy parked on nice plastic chair with all stuff laid our before me on old pinic table. What joys !.
I even managed to find an old battery powered toothbrush for the fiddly corners of the carb.
The engine de-greaser was a little scary as it stated rinse off with water.
I'd just covered the entire LH side of the engine and chassis frame.
However, I bit the bullit and sprayed with high powered cold water and guess what, it works. No more smelly, oily, fluffy engine.
To prove a point on the progress here's a before and after .........look up

( for some reason I still can't reposition the photos where i want them...come on Blogger, sort it!!!! )
Lots of the ancillaries have been cleaned too. My point about the black is that at some stage in its early life the car had had a good and thorough ( mild understatement) respray from white to black. This included the inside of all the boot,door, bonnet, sills, engine bay and ancillaries including THE WIRING.
So it took me four hours of back breaking cleaning the wires with thinners to reveal the colour before I could connect up the various ancillaries. Plus the sticky and grimy black electrical tape binding so many wires.

What lets the whole thing down is the area where the large smiths heater sits. It looks a little rusty and still white in parts. I didn't think they would remove this when converting the colour since it took me best part of 2 days to remove.

Next post will reveal what I found hiding in the car from Mr Bodgit & Scarper, or was it Mulder from the X-files ? .................more soon !

Now I've published the post the pictures don't do it justice. I'll try to give a better before and after of the carbs..............promise. And, And ,And what colour should I spray it ?

My feelings say Carmine Red, wifey wants old English white ( Original colour) kids say pearlescent light Blue...........................tell me what you think !!!!!!!!!!!!!!please

...........and a head !!

2008-08-01T17:49:00.003+01:00

Well finding the cylinder head was rather easy. It was in the shed all the time. Admittedly right at the bottom of the pile. So, since the MG had had a tool tidy up I moved it into there.
I had to move it ( stored in a handy large Poly-prop box from work ) several times in and out of the car every time I did things.
However, first job was to remove the thermostat housing. Two of the three nuts came away complete with studs, the third...........No chance. It appeared that the stud was slightly bent.
There was no way that was going anywhere. I did't want to drill it...........how anyway ?
A few gentle taps with the large and heavy Aluminiun faced hammer would certainly help.
Yes they did, the housing cracked from top to bottom. At first I didn't notice, I thought it was made in two separate parts, but no.....good old Fufferfour ruined it.
Still, once I realised this it was easy to remove. It still had the slightly bent stud left though.

This brings me to ask the obvious question.........................Why did motor manufacturers use so many studs ?....................They are horrible, always rust solid, break and are not easy to purchase.
The stud in question is about 35mm long ( 2 3/8" for the unenlightened) with a fine thread on one end ( 5/16 UNF) and coarse the other (5/16 UNC)..................................... FFS.........WHY ?
A simple 3/8" bolt , say BSW ..........or BSF, I don't mind ,would do + washer and hey ho.
Think how logical that would have been for good old BL, use 3/8 bolts all round, surely that would help keep the costs down for our struggling icon of manufacturing. But no, all different, hard to source and not cheap ( well not as cheap as 3/8" BSW/BSF anyway)
Removing the valve springs was a bit of a farce. All the manuals say you need a valve spring compressor. I'd priced them up, cheapest was £40 from Halfords. No way.
Thats almost a new doorskin !! After chopping a stout piece of 1.1/2" x 1.1/2" timber I found I could bear down on the spring cover and make the collet top loose. Trouble was it took both arms and my full weight of 10 stone.........................porky alert............14 stone ( 190 Lbs )
So I had no arms free..............except that wifey just happened to be passing by.
So she was roped into service with a screwdriver poking both halves of the collect out as I pressed down. It was approx 8.30 at night and she was tired. Needless to say she had to say it
" do you actually enjoy struggling without the correct tools,
getting cuts and scrapes on yor fingers and getting oily filthy all
over"

Well us guys all know the answer to that..........................and they don't, ..............obviously !!!!
After the third valve I developed a technique that made wifey redundant, but hurt like hell when the wooded bar slipped. But perseverence paid off and by 4.30 a.m I had them all out.
Only joking, it took about 30 mins of struggle, pain, sweat and swearing.

The valves, collets, caps and springs we all numbered, bagged and stored.
I cleaned the head face with trusty scraper tool.
Ground the inlet/exhaust chambers with drill/bobbly grindstone.
Then lapped valve seats.........................cor blimey, what a farce and faffin abaht !!!!!!
The tool resembles one of those Childs toy arrows sold with cheap seaside bows. In fact one of those might have been better. The idea is to insert the correct valve stem into correct hole, smear mating valve face with grinding paste, stick on rubber sucker end of stick and rub hands back and forth as if trying to light a fire. Simple in theory. I read the technique many times and never gave it a second thought as it sounded so easy.
Now three alarming things that they never tell you -:
a/. The paste does not stay put where you put it
b/. Your hands after about five "rubs" are way down the bottom of the stick.
c/. The rubber sucker gets paste all over it and makes it next to useless
At this rate I would finish one vale per year, its going to be a long resto !!!
So I devised the following plan.
The good old Bosch drill was working perfectly, it even has a lever handily placed, to reverse the rotation. And it does it without fuss and seamlessly.
Mounted stick thing in drill, cleaned sucker with ( don't laugh...........ink cartridge flusher)
drill 15 seconds clockwise, same anticlockwise x 5 and check seat.
I was looking for a nice even band of approx 2 to 3 mm around the valve and mating face.
Some steady back and forth with trusty Bosch and the valves were seated a treat.
Off to the boot ( trunk) of the trusty Toyota for a full soak and clean at the works in Slough next time I visit ( via Swavesy for a new thermostat housing..........next story )

Sorry no Photos..........:-(

Its got wings

2008-07-30T14:01:00.007+01:00

Here it is, the last piece of major bodywork to be fitted, a lovely RH rear wing with beading.

The photo shows the rear side window and chrome trims fitted temporarily to give me an ego boost that a major phase is over.

The inner wheelarch was a real swine to fit. Well fitting was easy, the welding was not.

Inside the arch there aint enough room for my head(with welding helmet) torch, gloved hand and clamps. Also i must admit i skimped on the grinding a bit and this made the welding , well tough. So my wise advice to anyone attempting this.........Weld prep is most important !!!!

As a break from this I also made a nice flush fit with the bottom valance. This was done by welding in a strip behind where wing and valance meet, then applying some filler and smoothing to a good finish.

Whilst at it I also had a fit of efficiency and welded in some ( two ) pieces in the boot floor near the spare wheel clamp.

This caused a slight diversion as I had to empty the MG of all my tools stored there. Of course, like a goldfish or small child I'm easily distracted so I had a rehash and tidy up all of my tools and stuff in the MG. Well was there some crap. This leads me to another diversion. One of tools.

When restoring the MG a few months ( nay years) ago and starting this blog I listed my top ten favourite and must have/most useful so far, pieces of equipment. See earlier on posts.

I've now revised this in light of more recent experiences.

So here it is

Money
Money
Money
Money
Workmate ( B&D type) not a real one, although one with spare cash and a garage is OK
Patience
Angle grinder
jigsaw
Mig welder
trimmingtool/screwdriver/scraper/chisel.....Yet it really is one tool, and I have one.

As we speak ( you know what I mean) I only have item 10. but thats jumping ahead again.

From the photo above you see I left the door in place as an aid to alignment. Good move now the wing is in place.

Next on the agenda is the engine bay ( remember the blog is about now 2 months behind "real time")

I may post that tonight, I might not. Depends how I feel and how hot the sunshine gets late on. See how light and fluffy my mood is. Restoring MG's gets you that way. That and having bugger all money, tough job and a penchant for red wine. +++++ for some reason I can't place another photo near the bottom of the blog, only at the top, which would ruin the continuity of the story so far. So thats it for now.

When tools have "Off Days"

2008-07-24T18:24:00.005+01:00

Some time after welding on the rear wing, or was it just before, I had a real bad tool day.

Same as the wife's bad hair days, only worse.

I had to cut out several small rectangular pieces using the trusty jigsaw. The jigsaw has served me well over the years and has cut lots of things. I had "modified" it to get at awkward parts on the MG, by removing the base, and somehow never got it to go back together exactly right.

On the day in question I did manage to get it back as it should be and proceeded to make an extra long cut in a removed doorskin. See.......I'm even managing to make it a green car by recycling as much good steel as possible. But I'm afraid it just died. Even after suspecting all that was wrong was the brushes, no, it had run its joyful and varied life. The rotor/commutator windings had just disintegrated, poor old B&D jigsaw.

Still all was not lost, I just did it the old fashioned way with hacksaw and effort. God I missed the jigsaw. So then to welding, after 1 minute of expert welds, spit, spatter, silence.

The welding wire had all been used up !. God when I bought the welder it had about 37 miles of wire on the spool. So 4 CO2 bottles later it had eventually gone. What to do on a sunday afternoon with intermittent fine drizzle and sunny spells ? More grinding, thats what I'll do.

The grinder had allready had new carbon brushes fitted a few months ago, Ten Bloody pound 99p, when the whole grinder cost only £ 14.99..........Scre**ix are not my favourite people.

But no, it coughed and spluttered,I shook it, I banged the brush mounts with relied upon persuading tool ( Hammer) but nuffin. Inspecting the brushes showed thet were not quite worn down but the copper wire connecting them had parted company with the carbon, Both sides !!!

Then, whilst cleaning up and "reshaping" the battery box cover the workmate jaws just gave up and turned from two just functioning ( they have been out in the rain for the last two years)

parts into four non functioning parts !!!!!!!!!

So there I was, well and truly Scr#*(ed/f!xed). Thats when I hatched a plan to start on the engine.

Well after all it was all cluttering up the shed methinks.

So the bodywork and tools could wait till the cash was plentiful, all I need do is find the engine parts,clean& inspect and re-fitt............................hahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

oh, and try to make new workmate jaws.........this is an easy job,....... innit ?????

Next Instalment................................................... How to hide a cylinder head and many auxillary engine parts in an average 3 bed semi ( with shed at bottom of garden)

Back to reality

2008-07-24T09:29:00.002+01:00

Again for Matt.........the real thing.

As you all can see some great progress has been made, particularly on the engine and bay.

Later today I will post carrying on in sequence as this shots has fast forwarded a few months, even though it is current.

Here it is...........Just for Matt !!

2008-07-22T13:34:00.001+01:00

If only it did look like this.............................but one day !

Its been so long

2008-07-21T20:35:00.005+01:00

Well folks, apologies for not posting sooner. I've been busy !!

The MG progresses slowly but steadily, life continues and work, work busy busy.

Yipee.......College has finished. Yayyyyy.......ended up with 75 credits at level 3 and 15 at level two. Truth be told I should have got 90 at L3 but eased off when I was offered a place at University, already having the required amount. However,I did eventually manage a level 3 in Psychology at last.

Sadly the Sociology lecturer thinks I'm the student from hell, so no L3 in this subject.

All after me...........Do I care, ........do I $^?**!

Work has been very busy since March, with two trips to France and many more visits to the carbuncles of this sceptred isle.

Anyways back to the blog in hand. I last left you having prepared the rear wing for replacement. Well its on and looks great.

I also had to repair the inside of the "C" post in the corner. It took a lot of fiddling, grinding and even more welding of small patches but here it is. The bottom photo shows the tricky piece welded in, which as usual was ten times easier to do than I thought and pondered months over.

The inside was also very rusty and needed lots chopping out and rewelding in.

The finished results don't look pretty but hey, the're strong, rust free and covered up by all the trim.

I've decided on a new stratagey....................lets get the thing finished !!!

So, a two pronged attack, bodywork and engine. I have done lots and made some good progress on both. The only snag was the door, or more accurately the door hinge. Whilst repairing the front wing lower section i decided to remove the door. Bad move. Had to drill out the six screws holding it on. The the captive plate retainer gave up the ghost. i.e it was just not there only a faint brown apparition of where it used to be before the rust.

More in depth photos and discussions tomorrow ( hopefully ) now time and tide is with me.

More on than off

2008-03-24T17:24:00.004Z

Above shows the new sill welded in position and a good door gap. Its better than the LH side as then I removed the door ( bad move) However this time i left the door in situ and look, it fits great. I only made one error. A small one at that. I forgot to buy a jacking point when I purchased the sill from MGOC. Not so bad though as I can always weld it on later.

Next job is to repair the Inner wheel arch, replace whole of LH wing, but first make new repair section to rear window base. Its rusted completely through and no new panels are available.

I'm going to bend one at College on their ace bending machine. It comprises of a short vertical piece of say 8mm then the horizontal base with another bend tapering along its length down 90 degrees at say 8mm ( this is where the new wing will attach)

The job thats got to be done that looks a little fiddly is the hole in said window corner. Its a large radius in a 45 degree apex with little or no chance of getting in the scary grinder to dress the welds so I'm thinking I may braze a section in, if only I knew how to braze or had the kit !

I wisely did all this a few weeks before the easter hols, and guess what , ever since its been either snowing, raining, gale force winds or all three so I,m not so frustrated.

The earthquake also put a stop to things for a while.

After hearing what sounded like a dumper truck depositing 3 tons of bricks on the roof and a quick check that we were all ok, a rece showed the chimney stack had reduced in size and came to rest in the conservatory via the tri-ply roof. So my office has been out of bounds for some time till its replaced, the chimney stack has been repaired so we are not living in fear of errant bricks or slates anymore. When the weather is better and money abundant the car bodywork will be virtually done bar a few minor touch ups and cosmetics, then on to the suspension, or engine, or chrome, or carbs.............and on and on.

More soon folks !!

More off than on !

2008-02-17T14:47:00.006Z

That is bodywork wise anyway. Another glorious weekend and I set too removing the rear wing. I debated long and hard about removing it. I have the cash to buy a new outer sill and new wing ( left over from x-max prezzies) and i have in the shed (for shed read vehicular temporary storage area- non garden bottom orientated-ie i save it in the MG) a partial outer inner wing, brand new. So, i thought i would need all these parts before removing the wing.

The great god Mr Mark Evans says its important to repair the inner wing BEFORE removing the outer................................please forgive the petulance and disobediance Mr Mark ,but you're wrong ! Especially since you don't know MY CAR, previously bodged..big time.
Below is a prime example. Look at said wing removed.

This is the removed wing. Its had a repair panel "sort of " welded aroung the wheel arch. I say sort of since the norm is to replace all of the lower half at the seam/swage line, or joddle a new section/s under the damaged/cleaned up wheel arch. This was neither, just lots of filler over the whole area right down to the rear valance and rear light cluster ( including much gauze below the light cluster) The panel was a doddle to remove for 2/3rds of its connection . The final 1/3rd was a right swine, its the part thats nearest the rear door gap. The actual wing fits over some areas of gently bent ( 90 degree bend with lovely radius) and fits under other areas, all making a nice join at the point you notice most when opening the door. I took me ages to discover the tiny spotwelds, some inaccessible, some invisible most impossible. Surely it did not take this long to remove the other side.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,!!!!!!No yer great clot!!!!

You bought the car with no rear left wing, remember, all that time long ago, when you were blissfully ignorant of bleeding knuckles, eyes full of grit, pores full of Duckhams and a shed you could actually walk into. So a few gentle taps with the omni tool ( part chisel/part screwdriver/part upholsery prise bar/part rust basher/scraper) some sardine can like peeling with the water pump pliers after a slicing sesion with trusty grinder ( + slicing disc) and yipee.

Tried to work today ( Saturday 2 pm) but despite the sun shining its bloody cold. Only managed to dress up some rusty edges on wing before my toes and nose said no more please. Spent most of following Sunday catching up with college, its still freezing cold out though.

Next job on the list is to Purchase and fit outer sill. Make and weld small tabs to secure A post to sill.
Then remove rust from wheel arch HERE <
Fit new wheelarch repair panel. Weld to rear of new sill.
Fit new wing and weld then repair base of rear light/pointy thing and join with rear valance.

Should keep me happy for a bit, if it don't rain !

Its over.............here comes summer !

2007-12-30T16:55:00.001Z

Hello peeps

Many apologies for not posting for so long but its taken a good few weeks to overcome the lethargy, depression and general goings on. Still thats what holidays are for, and guess what. Its done the trick. So to prove it here I am smiling the Sunday before new years eve ( the day after the wedding anniversary also)

Yes I know its all Bluey tinted, but daughter number one took it, and was cold standing in bare feet, so rushed it meI thinks. Still it was very cold and getting rather dark though.

Had a very good Holiday so far, with no family Illnesses or other disasters. Had lots of prezzies and booze and snoozes by the fireside. The new additions to the fold Ralph and Ruby ( 5 month old stripey Tiger type cats) are sending us nuts with their antics and ruining the house. In fact we've given up replacing the baubles on the tree after Ralph decided to launch himself from the sofa to the tree innards. Well, actually as punishment to the kids ( They always deserve SOME punishment - almost 14 year old twins, boy- girl, lots of time in the house/bed/bedroom/internet/i-pod/x-box) we decided it was their chore, or no free time.

Clever little dicks, they just banned Ralph & Ruby from the room.

Back to the resto. Finally motivated myself to get stuck in and welded the floorpan strip in.

I did think I would have to spend hours making the strip a perfect fit, but, as in new year resolution, JUST GET ON WITH IT. So I did. No fussing and worrying. No over thinking the Issue.

Here it it tack welded in position...........Note the Hi-Tech clamp of hammer and wood offcut.

And finally welded. Can you see the join yet ?

Its the longest weld I've done so far. Only tricky for half its length because my head, the welding helmet, right or left arm and Steering wheel all wanted to be in the same place.Its dark in there too. And smelly with thick black smoke from the underseal underneath. Counted seven little welding fires which all needed me to extract myself from my semi prone hernia inducing welding position and flap wildly with gloved hand to extinguish them. The photos look nice and clear because of the flash, but in reality it was difficult to see, hard to reach , cold, damp and uncomfortable. But i did it. And without complaining.

Next on the list is this little hole near left foot position and small hole near rear spring hanger. Soon though. Fufferfour's back on a roll and he's got money for new panels !!!!!!!!!!!

See you all soon folks..............................+++++.Rick thanks for the e-mail re moments ect++++

An indifference to life in general

2007-11-10T14:28:00.000Z

Well readers, as you may guess by the title I've been a little preoccupied of late with life in general.
Work is as tough as ever, my health has been suffering a bit of late and family issues seen to be getting more complex and frustrating. Not to mention college which has moved up a gear and left me feeling vulnerable and a little stupid.
The MG has been left well and truly bottom of my priorities, occasionally flapping and waving its errant blue poly cover whenever rain and wind appears.
The weather since my last post has been very good, however my drive and enthusiasm has not, so several weeks have been wasted. I feel I'm going to regret this when winter finally arrives together with enthusiasm, cash and happiness.
However I'm determined not to let the car be one of the many abandoned projects for sale on E-bay. I must say my doppelganger Rick has given me the impetus not to fail as he is restoring a real basket case and is making a good job of it in similar circumstances, if not with a little more cash and garage.
So why the depression Fufferfour ? you ask.
Well I don't know really.
A level physics at college did not help. Full of young kids all able to grasp thirty five ways of transposing formulae, knowing the answer is in Nm, m/s ( -2) Kj or wotsits.
The other evenings are not the same as I feel its a waste of time as they are catering for the newbies ( combined class from the two last year) who are a year behind a small minority in class.
Still Biology continues to be good and I'm beginning to understand how all the body parts work together.
Work wise has not see an influx of machine orders, the ones won have took ages to build and the other side of the biz has seen a few small victories over the competition. Still its a hard and lonely life on the road with such a large area to cover.
Seven days in Dusseldorf working the "k" show proved to be very tiring and not as exciting as previous. Staying with an old couple in the suburbs was really nice but our new French owner had decided to gatecrash over the weekend so all my French colleagues were very tense and very well behaved, almost boring, for my liking. It still took me at least five days to physically and mentally recover. I think this was the start of the great depression.
That and the lack of activity from British industry on the stand.
The wife and kids continue to argue, bicker, winge, demand and generally frustrate any attempts I have of a happy life.
One event of note in our household is the arrival of Ralph and Ruby. Two tiny kittens that look like darkly striped Tigers. How we love the way they frolic with their tiny skinny legs and button noses.
How I hate the smell emanating from the Poo tray in the dining room.
Still, that was a few months ago and now they are turning into whirling dervishes of mass destruction. It's still funny to see their antics though. Unfortunately their poo still stinks the house out. Roll on Feb when they can leave the house for the big bad world outside.
The MG was left with a long strip of about 1" wide cut from the floorpan where it meets the outer sill, and the last 3" of the outrigger cut away. I've since bought a new outrigger and jacking point during a brief diversion to the MGOC last month. Whats difficult is welding the repair panel ( Cut from the opposite sides unused repair panel) in. The steering wheel is in the way. I tried for about 2 hours to bash it upwards from its splines without damaging the soft plastic base. It transpires one of the famous BL service tools ref BL-vb10073 part 6a is required. I say famous because no one has ever seen any of the recommended service tools. There is also two further small holes in the drivers side floor. One near the rear spring hanger, which has for some reason been repaired previously without trimming the excess steel away, and another at the base of the transmission tunnel/floorpan, near where your left foot would rest. I don't think these will present too much difficulty though. ...........................famous last words !
I have a inner rear arch panel to fit ( Birthday present in May) together with a new rear wing and maybe rear sill repair section and complete outer sill ( yet to be purchased). I also need to fabricate a section of about 10" long with two 90 degree bends to repair the window frame base where the wing is welded to.
Then the major bodywork is almost complete....................hehe.....easy word almost !

Getting there

2007-09-20T15:37:00.000+01:00

The last few weeks ain't seen much activity.

However, the A post nightmare has ended. Yes I bit the bullet and welded, cut, ground, templated, cut, ground & welded ad infinitum. + not a lot of body filler.

I must say sanding filler is not my favourite pastime. God is it boring. Unfortunately its necessary and vital to get a good look to the finished car.

So, the A post then......................see the finished result below !

This is the finished result after lots and lots of very fiddly welding in of small curved pieces of steel. Its integrity is good and the filler only hides the welds too inaccessible for the grinder.

However, its the wing join that I'm most proud of. This took some welding in of curved steel and was much easier than I first thought. In fact I pondered hours and hours on how to repair it and kept putting it off till the last moment. The filler sanded a treat and lots of offering up the wing made the join perfect.

What was a constant source of frustration is the front RH wing. The LH wing had lots of welding done on the captive nuts and a new bottom rear edge.

So I was prepared for the worse.

After venturing to the bottom of the garden and behind the shed to unearth the wing I had a pleasant surprise. The captive nuts were fine...............yipeee.....some luck at last.

Booo.................................................................. remembered the wing also had some accident damage to the front around the grill aperture.

But, thought this would be easey peasey to repair, a few whacks and job done.

Wrong, wrong and wrong again.

The area affected is in a sort of zig-zag shape, so I thought a few whacks would sent it nicely back from where it came.

Well about 2 weeks later, several bleeding knuckles, C1 compressions of the spine and picking up a fallen wing from the trusty workmate I'm somewhere near.

Panel beating complex shapes is definitely NOT easy. This was made worse by the fact that whichever way I positioned the wing it needed to be nose down ( on the floor) and tilted up about 70 degrees whilst simultaneously beating it with the precision hammer, which in turn caused the wing to fall over and/or slip sideways. I think I moved 15 yards down the drive whilst beating, and suffered at least four good bongs on the head from the wing falling.

Its back to almost as new now.

The Ironic thing is that since I'm converting to chrome bumper, this area has to be cut away and smooth pieces welded in.

The wing then has been rubbed all over, inside and out, sprayed in grey primer several times between applications of small amounts of filler.

Still, at least all the captive nuts are all ok.

Next job on the list is fitting a repair panel to the RH footwell where it joins the inner sill.

Andy from Doncaster donated this part when I bought the LH sills from him on good ol E-bay.

Even though the panel is for the wrong side I'm only using the inner 1" so it will match perfectly.

See the devil wing below, and I promise to post more often.

Rust........in all the wrong places !

2007-08-15T20:55:00.000+01:00

Well..........removed the RH outer sill rather easily. Six spot welds and a few easy whacks with the multi-tool ( scraper/chisel/upholstery/screwdriver thingy) and off it came.

The good news is the inner membrane is in near perfect condition, as is the castle rail.

So I've decided not to replace these. The inner sill is also good too !!!

Its not all good news though.

The front bulkhead, where the sill front meets is well.....as mess !

Its really weird that the car has rusted in all unexpected places, as well as expected places on different sides.

I decided to chop off all the rust with the newly refurbished grinder ( having replaced the carbon brushes with the proper items)

So look see.............

The upturned flap on the castle rail is going to be tricky to repair. Its in good condition.

However, its the top most part of three layers of steel. The next layer is the front bulkhead ( rusty where cut away) and behind that is the upturned flap on the end of the inner sill.

Also another tricky part is the end of the membrane. I cut it away a bit and bent it out to investigate the inside.

I think I may replace the first two or three inches of this and it will allow prior access to the end flappy area.

In a fit and flurry of DIY we have re-painted the whole of the dining room.

Well, wifey started it.......all ar*e about face and in a terrible mess. Still credit to her she stuck in there and cried HELP when it got tough.

So, early last Saturday I got stuck in, moved shelves and heavy objects etc, and completed it by Sunday late lunchtime

Trouble is now though she's already planned another two rooms for the next few days, for the same treatment. Cunning devil has been saving it for my Hols without letting on. I'm sure it was all a scheme to keep me away from the MG. I think she knows how to make motor brushes wear and welding gas to evaporate ( witchcraft ?..... feminine intuition or just plain bad luck ?)

Considering I'm on holiday now for two weeks and spending them at home I can't see where the rest/relaxation is going to come................................Ha!! Wifey says...........spend a day in my shoes anyday you like Mr " I've had a long busy day at work, too tired to do DIY but enough energy to fiddle with your hobby" ( No....."hobby" is not a euphemism for that precious and rewarding universal boys toy we discovered in early teens)

Once that round of DIY is now complete I removed some more engine ancillaries and even had the foresight to "borrow" a large plastic storage box from work ( we specialise in machinery to print them so we have lots skulking around the factory)

It looks rather empty in there.

Whilst Wifey is still to the forefront this holiday I used some female logic on her !!

And guess what................................................................It worked.

As I explained how much the three part LH sills cost and my joy at not having to buy all three , hence SAVING on this part of the project, I can now go and buy another RH rear wing complete like last time, you remember dear, back in May, my birthday, when we had a fun day out together and visited the MG hive............

Yes dear, what fun that was............we'll go again soon. But not until you've finished all the decorating, spent time away in Chester next week on a shortened holiday, been to see your beloved team play with No 1 son, and with whats left you can buy all the panels you want.

Well it sort of worked. Lets get in the good books first then apply more tactics.

More soon.........Thanks for the link Rick

If only I'd waited........or been a little less impatient

2007-08-03T15:50:00.000+01:00

I've done a stupid and silly thing.

Annoyed at the the yet again death( well soldiering on bravely but intermittently) of my trusty angle grinder I decided to remove the exhaust.

Rear end not too bad.

Middle section easy.

Front end.......so far so good, five of the six nuts undone.

The last one..............Impossible.

I'm under the car looking up at the manifold join. Yes the first five were a little tricky and awkward. I can only just see the sixth, let alone get the socket and extension onto it.

The trouble is the sump edge is in the way. It won't allow the socket to sit square on.

After several attempts, bruised knuckles, rust flakes in both eyes and oil/grunge in back of head I called it a day.

Well almost.

In a fit of pique I whacked the grinder one more time and it sprang into life.

So under the car I crawled and cut the exhaust in two just after where two pipes become one at a thick flange.

I thought it the only way to remove the damn thing. The last bolt was rounded off, and too inaccessible to get so much as a finger there, let alone a grinder or wrench.

So in I went with the grinder. Grinder protested loudly but after 5 mins there it was.

In two more manageable halves........................but see later.......................

Oh I forgot, to celebrate finishing one side the whole clan helped me move the car the other way round in the drive.

This involved moving both normal cars to way up the other end of the Cul-de-sac.

Pushing a very heavy car (including tool contents inside) onto the road at 45 degrees.

Pushing a little further down road. Son armed with patented vehicle halting device ( half housebrick) There's no brakes on the car cause I've removed them and the steering is very very heavy.

Then push back into drive.

At this point I'd like to thank the newish and so far never speaking, neighbour opposite and Dutch relative/friend.

..............................................................................................For watching............................................... while this old fart, his unfit wife with a bad back and two skinny thirteen year old twins ( one of each) struggle somewhat.

They ( two males 35-45 years of age) spent the whole afternoon looking at the engine of their car and then looking at the toolbox.

I hope they enjoyed watching us from 15 feet away across the road.

Its the other way round !!

The following day I decided to remove some engine ancillaries.

Carbs came away nicely after locating the bolts.

Since the under bonnet was covered in a poor excuse for sound proofing that hanging off in most places the whole engine bay is covered in "FLUFF".

"Yes, fluff"

Well more like horeshair, but its everywhere. And mixed up with loads of rust and lots of oil.

So cleaning the carbs will be interesting. So will the whole engine bay actually.

Removed centre inlet manifold, easy.

Even the dead rusty and often snapping exhaust studs came undone.

Its then that the manifold fell down and to one side.

Yes the difficult to get at nut was now easily accessible from underneath.

WHAT A PRATT.............I cut the exhaust in two for nothing !!!

If I'd removed said items before attempting the manifold studs underneath i would never have rounded off the last nut...........doh !!!.

So, lifted it clear and deposited both halves at back of shed out of sight.

Following day removed alternator, coil and dizzy lid + oil filter. Yes. I did remember to label all the wires up................sometimes I function almost normally.

Here's a few shots of my rust investigations of the the as yet untouched RH side.

This is a view looking forward at the A Post top. Worrying and scary.

This is after my head exploded after finding more rust.

Have no clue how I'm gonna repair these little beauties.( books and toilet springs to mind)

Suppose it explains me turning my attention to the engine.

Footnote.

The grinders died well and truly. No amount of whacking makes it start. Ordered new bushes from Screwfix ( £ 6.50, robbing dogs...........the whole grinder was only £17.00)

CO/Argon bottle on MIG welder also empty.

Spotweld drill bit blunt as hell.

Time for some time off or DIY......................yipee says Wifey. Personally I want a holiday.

More soon hopefully.

Go here, It's the funniest thing I've read in a long time

2007-08-02T17:10:00.000+01:00

Just a quickie post to share with you all, but very very funny.

Its right up my street as its toilet humour( Laxatives actually) at its best.

Stick with it and read all the posts by Blu-Tone.

Its actually from a Mountain Bike message board.

One day 'Ill tell my funny story of a hospital visit. I'd have to embellish it somewhat but it would not be a patch on how Blu-Tone tells his !!!!

Link = http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/read.php?f=2&i=3145351&t=3141618#reply_3145351

Tool trouble then rapid progress

2007-07-29T20:06:00.000+01:00

Here's the part I'm damn proud of.

It involved bending a section of the curved rear valance ( above the square hole) then welding in place and having a 5/10mm lip to place the flat plate onto.

The large vertical weld is where the rear valance and wing end did not meet exactly.

I placed a strip of steel approx 1" wide to the rear, bent to fit the curve and welded inplace.

I managed to fill most of the non meeting edges with weld.

The flat plate that rests in the base of the pointy thing and upto/on the rear boot corner was quite tricky. I got through lots of cardboard making the right shape template.

Still, it all went very well with no probs...............the secret to welding is grind all the things nearby shiny, get a good earth and listen to the weld..............like rapidly cooking bacon.

The only Blot on the landscape was the angle grinder dying.

Ma in Law bought it for me last x-mas from screwfix. Not a top make ( NOTE..always buy Bosch if your serious) but its been the most used tool and definitely a requirement.

However, one day it just did not switch on.

Checked the fuse....ok

Checked the kitchen socket....ok

Unpluged and removed the disc and guard...........scary stuff as this tool scares the life out of me.

Then I noticed two protrusions each side of the main body with a large screwdriver slot in the end. Removed these and the commutators sprang forth with a tiny blob of an excuse for a carbon block.......................Disaster, should I persue the probably frustrating and longwinded course of new parts through Screwfix, or should I source locally.

Anyway, since the rains was still with us I decided on local. B&Q ect, shed no light or idea on tool spares.

In fact I dont think any of the staff even knew what a motor commutator was.

Now, may I get on my high horse here. B&Q ect may be cheap, convenient and always open but there not a patch on" proper" hardware places. We have two in my town.

One just like"open all hours" for hardware only. Its amazing. Ask one of the elderly staff for a lock and they will have it all, and explain about 2,3 and 5 lever mortices, ease of installation and price and insurance complications and reliability. Same goes for aluminium ladders, parrafin,

Chicken wire, hinges, wheelbarrows, hammers, bolts and screws + trillions of other stuff.

All served by people friendly and happy and willing to talk and dressed in regulation stores issue Brown smock. Thats just one place.

The other place is for things electrical/electronic.These guys know it all, have it all, but are on a slightly different planet. It scares me a little.

So in I waltz with one mangled commutator. Have you got one of these ?

No, but we have on similar that you can "modify"

Well, for £2.30 why not.

Thats when the probs started. The carbon block was too large so I filed it with my swiss file, on the worktop in the kitchen.......................Big mistake, the dust is immoveable and gets everywhere. Wifey not happy.

Moved outside to workmate and rushing due to fact that imminent heavy storm due.

Still difficult to insert and remove carbon block. Then cover screw would not screw in totally.

Snipped spring shorter. Still no joy. Bent copper ends from carbon block/copper wire in several shapes, still no joy. However, shaking said grinder did momentarily show some life.

Anyways, to cut a long story short I buggered one and re-used the old one which was OK and fiddled the other eventually after lots of shaking and "gentle taps on the plastic retaining screw".

It now works...................thank **ck for that. It was almost touch and go between throwing it away and being electricuted in the rain outside.

Now we've had some respite in the rain the progress above has been made and not a small amount of filling and sanding.

Look......................................rapid progress.

Hours of sanding the rear lower valance applied by the previous owner left no nasty horror sories. Only a 50p sized hole in the very centre of the R/H crossmember end. Easily remedied by some fancy shaping of a 1mm thick steel and good welding/ filling skills.

Even after a good coat of primer some low spots were evident, so another round of filling and sanding. I must say this is very ffffrustrating. The different grades a sandpaper, sanding block, dust, mess, armache and annoyance that a pristine shape don't emerge.

So I moved onto removing the complete exhaust. Easy enough on the length of the car.

Easy enough on five of the six nuts under the manifold although three were a bit fiddly.

The six'th (NOT SIKTH, which is how annoying people pronounce it) however seems impossible to get to. The shaft of the ratchet extension is too thick, the engine base/sump flange won't allow the the socket to sit on fully since the extension is not perfectly vertical.

So a point to ponder on whilst the wifey tries to fill my head with DIY projects and things to do of a summer day in the garden.

More soon folks......................oh by the way visit Ricks site.........He's got more money and tools than me and is making a real good job of it.

http://rick-mgbgt.blogspot.com/

A different corner

2007-07-17T15:33:00.000+01:00

So I'm moving onto the rear corner now. Most of the LH side body is DONE !!!

The wing fits as well as its ever going to fit, and is covered in primer and red oxide. The doors in the correct place ( not quite but the Phillips screws in the hinge need drilling out and I ain't got any replacements, so its near enough for me at this stage, it closes and looks neat all round)

The all shiny new wing attaching bolts fitted.

Rear wing welded in position. ( almost. Need new inner outer section, see earlier re incorrect item purchased.)

I'm ignoring the 50p sized hole in the rear window edge. It looks fiddly to repair and is covered by chrome trim eventually.

That means a quick fix for me then.........maybe, and some time next summer.

Oh by the way have we had this summer yet ?????

Here's a view of what I've been up to.

Since the car is being converted to chrome bumpers I have to add the RH side pointy thing at the base of the lights. This is another item I purchased NEW from MGB Hive a few months ago on a rare spending spree. I actually comes complete, so I just chopped off half.

I have to add a couple of patches to base of rear valance where its welded to inner boot tray .

The fiddly bit is the horizontal section inside the pointy thing and up to the valance.

Mine has completely rusted away under the gauze and deep body filler that was there.

Still, I'm becoming quite accomplished at cutting cardboard templates, jigsawing sheet steel, grinding and welding. Thats for the coming weekend if we have no rain or something that resembles summer.

Must stop complaining though,as last year when it was red hot ( ah.. a distant memory) I couldn't be bothered to make a start on cutting, welding and grinding.

Just to keep it interesting here's another photo of the rear end. Note the lower valance, completely covered in filler by the previous owner. Had a little poke around and spotted rust at the bumper mounting holes. So, maybe I need to sand all this off before starting the above. If its bad news though that means a complete rear lower valance at £80 quid, ouch !

That reminds me. Since I,m over 18 months into the project I decided to have a review of the most useful tools to date. This is prompted by the fact that when I started I had absolutely no tools. In fact it never occurred to me that I would need Imperial sockets and spanners

Well it did really occur, since I'd worn out at least one toilet seat reading all things MG.

So here's the list, in order of usefulness for restoring old BL cars on a budget :-

1/. Trim tool remover.

Its a cross between a narrow paint scraper and a wide screwdriver. I got it for free as a print sample during a customer visit. I use it all the time for a/. Poking rusty holes, b/. separating spot welds, c/. smoothing bubbly paintwork, d/. removing underseal and rubberised gooey stuff, e/. prising panels and stuck down trim bits, f/. Phillips and standard screw removal. g/.wrapping J cloth round to clean inside light lenses and various parts.

2/. Penetrating Oil

As a matter of habit and long standing ritual I spray every nut and bolt I can see regardless of when I'm working on them or not. This is done at least every 2 weeks.

3/. Trolley jack

The cars been up/down so many times in so many places this has proven invaluable together with the axle stands. Remember I have no garage to work in so positioning the car for long periods is important.

4/. Electric 4-1/2" Hand Grinder

Scary tool to use. Very noisy. Needs love and attention and several types of discs. The Flappey layered one has been good but also the thin slicing disc is just as valuable. Good for heavy steel removal, light polishing of steel, de-rusting and shaping steel.

5/. Hammerite Ku-Rust

When panels are inaccessible and too awkward to remove/replace or just covered in surface rust, just paint it on and it does its stuff. I use it loads.

6/. Heavy Aluminium faced hammer. Nuff said.

7/. Quality Imperial socket set.

See earlier posts for my folly at cheap and cheerful

8/. The wonderful Mr Porter and his MG restoration guide, closely followed by the DVD of the wonderful Mr Mark Evans "Is born" series of MG restoration.

9/. E-bay My main source of tools and parts, especially the MIG welder.

10/. Time and money.....................unfortunately I have very little of either.

More next week folks,

2007-07-08T19:57:00.000+01:00

As you can see, or maybe not some things have been achieved.

I have spent lots of time getting the wing ready and prepared, mostly on the inside and adding filler to the sill/B-post join.

Why is it that things that seem to worry you most and up being the easiest to fix.

The wing mounting holes for one.

The beading and wing fit for another.

The fitting of the of the wing for yet another.

Anyways, back to the order of things since the last post.

I had applied lots of filler to the B-post/sill join and to the scuttle where it meets the wing top.

I must say that I ended up sanding most of it off.

Then the rain came....................and boy did it, in bucket loads.

So not much happened for the last two weeks, except for the rain.

Sunday evening saw a veritable monsoon, from 8pm onwards till about 10.30 next day.

During the brief interlude I noticed..........Horror of horrors that the blue cover over the MG had blown off some time Sunday evening/Mon morning and left the car open to the elements.

Well, elements is a pretty light word so I'll say pissing heavy torrential rain.

Luckily, only the outer edges of the inner car were damp with light rusting on the floor & sill areas. And for some strange reason one bucket in the back containing all my precision hammers 3 inches deep in water !!.

The blue Poly cover is pretty porous though, particularly where its been dragged over the roof on the ariel base. I did have a tennis ball over the protrusion but that's long gone into the void of disappearing restoration parts.

So Monday lunchtime off to good old B&Q during a firm but constant drizzle.

£3.99 for same Blue poly cover, 3 mtrs x 4 mtrs with fastening holes, what a bargain.

Gawd.......................what a size !!! You could cover half of Derbyshire with it.

Try fitting it in a drizzle and breeze enough to get you out of the harbour.

It was everywhere on the drive, Still its not porous (yet) and the biggest ball of wifey string helped to keep it in place, with the old ( porous yet much more manageable) cover over the top.It did its job for at least 2 weeks. Yes, that's how much rain we've had.

The work done to the inside of the wing worried me lots before I started.

It wasn't until a work related detour via Cambridge that I actually bought some more new stuff from the MGOC. A wing fitting kit to be precise, a 5/16 UNF nut, a 1/4 UNF nut and a headlight inner re-enforcing ring.

Spent all Saturday welding the 5/15 UNF nut under the wing top inner edge, making a cage for a strange British Leyland round 5/15UNF nut and welding up in same top inner edge, welding the 1/4 UNF nut to the inner wing mountings ( having first spent ages drilling out broken bolt and grinding away old nut ).

All just so the wing can go back on and be bolted in all its places.

Sunday saw me paint good old Hammerite Red lead all the inner wing rust prone areas, sand the sill B-post area, try again( 38th attempt) to remove the door hinges from the A post.

This but was aborted yet again.........which is a pity because the great big f**k off screwdriver I have has a hexagon on the shaft where it enters the handle so a ring spanner fits great and offers fantastic leverage. The phillips head is buggered though, thus it stays put....maybe !!

Ran a 5/16 UNF tap down the wing edge holes then undid the wing fitting kit.

Yipeeeeeee...........loads of new shiney screws, washers and spring washers + 3 nuts too !.

Fitted wing in a trice.......could even do the nuts up with fingers mostly.

Only had to use jack to press up bottom of wing so I could drill 3 holes to accept 3/16 screws with nut to attach to castle rail and jobs done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yes it fits and looks good!!!!

To think I started this blog and spent ages in deep mid winter removing the wing, and now here I am still in July deep mid winter fitting the wing.

Removed it though and sanded and cleaned everything down one side.

Sprayed lovely clean Grey primer on door, wing rear wing, B-post and sill area, A post and finally inner front wing area.

Here have a look..............................................

How good it is to see it looking like a car again........Its given me a real sense of achievement.

Next session should see the door hung, sort of, maybe finally or time to reconsider the phillips screws again, maybe leave them.

Wing fixed with all new shiney screws and bolts.

Sill finished ( still some slight filler spots to add to get nice even gaps) and to wing too, suffering collateral damage from being removed and trial fitted too may times.

Then weld rear wing and turn attention to rear of car..........Yes a new chapter, hopefully.

Its a little damp outside dear

2007-07-06T19:37:00.000+01:00

What can I say other than the title. Since last applying filler to the B post/sill join and filler to the wing/scuttle join its been........................well I'll say .................... wet!

The last two weekends, nay weeks, has seen torrents of rain fall, all day,all night and in between. During last Mondays deluge a quick glance at the MG and its forlorn flapping blue poly cover saw lots of rain get inside. Mid-day off to B&Q to get a new Poly cover( in the pouring rain) .

My present cover has a hole where the roof section has an ariel base protuding.

Despite having the clever idea of wedging an old tennis ball on it, the constant removing and tie-ing down has made it as firm as a vicars handshake. Not to mention the elastic bungee cords frayed to within an inch of their life. In fact on Sunday the poor old MG spent the evening till Mon Morn with the cover hiding between the fence and the driveway gate.

Fortunately I got the last blue Poly sheet at B&Q and cheap it was too (£ 3.99) .

The trouble was thought.................................Its Huge !!!!

3 metres x 4 metres. Seemed OK when I bought it. But try covering a car with it in the pouring rain, using frayed and limp bungee cords and a howling wind.

I ended up using about 70 metres of string, over, under, around, between, up and round the MG. It looked like a drunkard had tried to wrap up a Holly bush there was so much Blue poly cover. However, it made it water proof ready for the onslaught or rain we had, er........still having actually.

Prior to thison Saturday, I did remove the front wing several times to try and get a good fit between the curvy scuttle base and wing top edge............ Impossible............!!!!

In desperation I fixed the front wing with the 5/16th UNF bolt nearest the said position.

Then added filler to the join and bead ( I previously welded the bead to the wing)

So my thinking was if the join was rubbish( uneven with gaps) bolt them together, add filler, let dry, remove wing , sand to perfection and re-fit wing nicely.

WRONG

On removing wing all the filler broke off, some filler stuck to inside of wing beading and some filler was well just ..........crap.

ABANDONED...................................time for a re-think.

It needs all its bolts and holes in wing ready and clean so it can be clamped tightly, then re assess.

So, on a trip to the far SE corner of our wind and rain swept counrty I diverted via Cambridgeshire to the MGOC.

I actually bought some new ( YES NEW ) stuff, a wing fitting kit containing all the correct screws , washers and bolts. Nice and shiney.............Lovely, and only £ 6.25 !

Also got the 5/15th UNF Nut which I had to gring off the wing when refurbing it and another nut 1/4 UNF which has a sheared bolt in it on the wing.

Whilst there I also bought the headlight re-enforcing panel. This part took the best part of a whole day to remove from the wing as it was rusty and deep inside the wing.

So...............................My plan is simple.

Fit both new nuts by mig welding them in place.

How to remove the existing nuts with broken bolts in is another story.

Then fit the wing with all the bolts and nuts. To assist matters I even bought a 5/16 UNF tap.

Please dont faint, its not new. It was £1.99 + 99p p&P on..........yes you've guessed good old E-bay.

So when the rain and wind stops I'll get busy. Oh and do the sanding of the B post too.

A little more of all life's joys and irritations

2007-06-10T16:39:00.000+01:00

Not much has happened so far. MG wise I've pratted around doing nothing spectacular.

Well that's not exactly true.

I did set to to fit the inner wheelarch a few weeks ago. If you remember it was a panel I needed and was one of several bought as a birthday prezzie from MGB hive.

Anyways, I did all the correct things and lined it up, marked it + 1/2 inch and cut to the desired shape. Cut away the rusty wheelarch inboard of the 1/2 line.

I then set to attaching the wing, all well and good.

I spent the next few days(nay weeks) trying to get the inner wheelarch to fit the shape of the wheel arch and align front and back.

Impossible, so I left it for a further few days.

Then one bright and sunny Saturday I attacked it with renewed vigour and enthusiasm.

Gawd............................I know why it don't fit......................its the wrong side!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, I had actually been given a RH side when I needed a left. No wonder in didn't fit.

I've not told wifey yet........No need really since I can use the panel for the RH side , but all in good time.

What I have done is welded the wing around the B post seam/door and sill area.

See Below..............................

I know the gap between the sill and b post base is a little large, but, well there really is no answer. When taking off the old sill the gap was even larger, I remember distinctly seeing all the lead loading ( Yes Lead Loading) running away as I ground through it. So It must have been made that way at good old Abingdon ( Swindon actually is where the bodies were assembled)

The front wing gap at the same spot is also same size.............WE really did know how to build cars, eh !

The gap is now full of the dreaded filler ( No I,m not going to spend several months learning how to lead load) and its waiting to dry as I write this.

I did go a bit mad with the filler and covered several spot weld and the rear wing top beading seam. So next post will be all about sanding filler........maybe.

One job leads to........fivethousand others !

2007-05-21T11:31:00.000+01:00

So, the wing fits great with a regular gap around the door.

How to weld it on though.

This I must admit had scared me for months and months, In fact since I bought the car.

According to all the readings I've done it is really tricky with access very restricted or nigh on impossible. Even the wonder kid Mark Evans resorted to "Glueing" his on.

But since I now have the wing, its easy. Access is good to the door surround, the top front edge can be welded on the outside as a whacking great chrome strip covers it.

Access to the rear top edge ( Which is supposed to be Impossible) is easy.

Easy for a midget with nine foot arms. Not exactly.

By looking down the hole for the rear light all the internal seam is there to be seen and a welding torch fits in nicely. Will I still be saying that when I've actually welded it !

Spent most of the last few weekends offering up the rear wing, grinding shiney mating edges,

offering up and pondering, even more pondering and offering up.

Especially last weekend when it was all systems go for wing welding.

Bloody weather............wind, wet, dark........and that's only me.

Rain on and off every 5 minutes and gusts of wind between. So frustrating. Hence the offering up bit and pondering.

The rear inner outer wing (wheel arch) needs repair so I cut away the rust, and more rust and even more.

The boot corner where it fits to the inner and outer wheel arch has gone at its fitting point.

I'll need to fabricate a repair panel for this and rely on the wonderful Hammerite rust killer at the very rear behind the rear valance/wing join.

Look...........No rust its all gone

Next post should see the wing welded on and maybe the inner outer wing edge welded on.
The title e.g five thousand other jobs refers to the chopping down of the whole inner outer wheel arch panel purchased. The cutting/ shaping of above wheel arch edge, removing boot tray rust and having to remove a small portion of the inner wheel arch. All this means extra work fabricating, cutting, bending, shaping, clamping and welding. The remnants of the new outer wheel arch ( about 70%) will do for the inner arch repair ( I hope)

Not much fun and frolics away from the MG. Works been very busy with me visiting strange places like Hampshire, Kent and Guildford as well as Teeside, Borders Reigon and Hull.
France and Switzerland are also in there too, as well as too many nights away from loved ones.
Maybe next post will be on the problems of having teenage twins, since they, but one in particular is morphing into Harry Enfields "Kevin" before my very eyes. Cheeky bugger even says I'm turning into Harry Enfields dad !
An neither will help with the car !!...........................Wifey's up to her armpits in Plaster for her final Piece for Arts College......I've been plastered about four times, Ma in law at least three, sister in law twice........all in a good cause.
I must explain. She's taking moulds of our hands and arms. I've also had my face done and it has to be done again this weekend...It cracked, how funny ...............Hope it rains !!

It's not so bad after all

2007-05-07T19:37:00.001+01:00

Another fruitful session on the MG after a rather frustrating 3 weeks of staring, pondering and musing. The weather has been great but alas not the finances or work. I've been travelling the length and breadth of our fair Isle with a very busy and demanding work schedule plus no cash to impart onto the project. Added to which the demands of family life and their finances have taken priority, all on Ideal sunny days on which to work on said project, but c'est la vie, as the French say.

Happy birthday Fufferfour...............I'm now 50...yes five ohhh. Still feel like a 29 year old though perhaps with 21 years of experience. Some would argue with that and I'm not one to cause an argument........least yet whilst I know where my bread is buttered !!

The MG has had some giant strides of late ( only the last two days actually)
On my birthday I took the day off and sallied forth with wifey to the MGB Hive to buy new panels...................Oh joy of joys. A proper garage/business who it is apparent are very dedicated to ensuring your pride and joy is catered for. All with a free cuppa and friendly service too. Even rounded down the sum total of new rear wing, new inner outer wing, 1 mtr of wing beading, front wing repair section and rear light bump Plus a free beaker !!!! Fitted repair section to front wing easy peasy. The MGB Hive even let me "joggle" the panel whilst waiting so that made it much easier.
Depression only set in when I came to cut the rusty section from my front wing with the scary grinder with cutting disc inserted. All went well for two thirds of the way from front to near the back, then clouds of white dust billowed forth .

Yes you've guessed it, the rear portion of the wing was full of filler. How much filler though ?
Bloody lots........and lots ...........and lots. There must have been one eight of an inch covering up one hell of a depression. Funny that it was not visible from the inside though.
So welded on new bottom half repair panel leaving only slight kink in shape of curve of wing near door gap. Remedied this with expertly applied filler.
God................aint sandin filler borin ( best Yorkshire dialect.....I am from Sheffield !!)
Anyways, after what seemed like an eternity it looked good and fitted a treat with good gaps etc. Even ventured into bowels of shed to find wing retaining bolts.......this took approx 70 mins as most of the contents had to be removed then replaced to much sweat and cursing.
The net result is the wing fits almost perfect, the door has the quarter light fixed, sort off to aid alignment and some gentle persuasion of the bolts for the wing should see it all tickety boo.
Here it is in all its glory. The rear wing has been added for show as a giant ego boost fro me.

The car was bought with it missing so to see one propped up there is a major boost, even though its only duck tape keeping it attached . It looks wonderful and a real sign of progress.
I'm really looking forward to attaching the rear wing and inner /outer wing.
Please take note though...........when welding be sure that the panels are perfectly aligned.
Otherwise adding and sanding filler is messy, dirty and very very boring.

More soon............!!!

I've got a Fan

2007-04-20T14:43:00.000+01:00

Yes folks, hard to believe but I got it myself after a lot of hard work.

The fan is actually the heater fan removed from the MG with no little effort, lots of sweat and pondering and probably even more swearing.

For once I didn't read the the MG bible by Mr Porter. I read another publication I bought on E-Bay for a fiver. It's very good, don't get me wrong. But removing the heater is a dirty job so I popped indoors and got said book because its a little grimy ( For our colonial cousins read dirty)

Read instructions and away I went. Some inventive blows with the hammer onto the large screwdriver in turn resting on Phillips screws very rusty, managed to free them without loss or damage. Removed two hoses connected to front of heater, easy peasy.

Should be free to be lifted up and forward, perhaps with some gentle persuasion.

Grrr......

puff.......

pant......

ouch !..( screwdriver slipped)

wrestle...

rock........

Time for a re-think. The bloody little thing would not budge.

Looked under dashboard to see if any pipes are connected......No, not much is actually connected dash-wise anyway after its removal and a few heater pipes last year.

Pokes around into where base of heater feeds to....nothing.

Back to wrestling then, but re-positioned to LH side of car.

Slowly some movement but then static and unmovable.

Grrrrr

Reads book again

Wrestles again.............more Grrr

Looks at mess under dashboard again.

Re-reads book......................................Ooooops "REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE HEATER CONTROL WIRE AT THE DASHBOARD CONTROL LEVER"

Yes it said it there right in the first paragraph. How can you not understand that !!! doh!!

So here is a picture to prove it.

There on the transmission top was a rather rusty and forlorn device dangling like an ignored heater control lever. Two small nuts undone and away it came from the brake cable type wire and sheath. Round to the heater box, a few wiggles and plop. Out it came.

Well bugger me, it was the wire holding it in all the time. Don't let that fool you though.

Apparently they are quite difficult to remove, and even harder to put back with nice new fat and not very spongy foam seals. The heater don't look too bad. It would never have worked though. The large flap at the base of the fan, which directs air down to the four internal pipes/vents was rusted shut and stuck with manky foam. The bracket that the wire attaches to on the flap had also parted company with the flap so not all was in vain. The rest of the heater looks in good nick. It just needs a good clean and new seals/foams. The wonderful MGOC offers uprated heater matrix and larger fan as the heater on the MG is not the best. In fact our American friends think its the heater from hell. Hey-ho, you have global warming now.

I'm tough though and can stand a little cool air in winter. ...................Ha. Not true. I cant afford or won't spend the money, on what I see as a pretty pointless mod.

Here is a view of the base of the heater box.

Great Innit !

Next few week should see some major strides in bodywork additions. Wifeys allowing me loadsOmoney to spend as a birthday prezzie. New L front wing base repair section, new L rear wing complete, repair panels for inner outer wing. Hope it don't rain then as we've not seen any for a few weeks..yippeeeee.

Sods law though. I've got no money so not much work has been done.

I'll be 50 next post.................almost one of Wogans T.O.G's

see you all soon

things went to plan......about bloody time !

2007-04-08T16:17:00.000+01:00

Well look left, some progress to show and it ain't half bad.

The doorskin bought on E-bay looks great and was fitted by me, myself all alone and with no help, no disasters or dodgy happenings. Twin No 1 did hold the door whilst I hammered down the curvy bits near the top, however he got bored after approx 15 seconds so spent at least 3 minutes arguing with recalcitrant teenager on father/son bonding issues.

However, back to the progress, this is how it happened.......all according to plan, almost.

Once said doorskin had been purchased I set to work removing old doorskin by grinding the edges on three sides ( Most of the top is open to accommodate the window)

I had done this before last summer remember when practicing on a scrap door ( again bought on E-bay, this time I was conned somewhat as it was beyond repair, under the filler was new panels welded directly on top of the old rusty ones)

The old skin came away fairly easily since there was rust around all three sides. The front corner was probably the worse with nothing their at all.

So, some skill, logic and experience came to the fore. Most of the lips of the door, but not all, were rusty so needed replacing. Thus at strategic points I left parts of the lip in tact and welded on new lips. This was tricky in itself as I kept blowing holes when welding next to the remaining lips as it was so rusty. But with time and patience I managed to get a full ( almost) lip with only about 3 cm total ( 1" for non metricated) missing in two places. Used a excellent product called "Kurust" from Hammerite on the remainder of the lip and inside door bottom.

This stuff looks like milk but dries quickly to a dark Blue/Black and stops rust dead.

I think I'll need a lot of this. I literally poured it into the windscreen pillar base and on the rear window surrounds till I get chance to repair them.
Anyway, after it has dried a liberal coat of red-lead ( another Hammerite product) all over lips, inside door frame, outside door frame and inside of doorskin, we were ready to fit the skin.

So, a few days later ( actually Easter Saturday 2007) I set to fitting the skin.

I must admit this worried me as I did not want to make a balls of it as a new door would be over £100 quid. After reading the fantastic Mr Porters book on how to, I did as he said.

Tapped the edge all way round a few degrees in, taking it slowly and steady. After about eight circuits of the door it was ready for the edges to be bashed down firmly using a short block of wood and keeping the doorskin side supported underneath.

Hey presto here's the result..............................

My biggest concern was how the door bottom would line up with the sill I fitted. I expected to have the same gap as the old door which was around 10mm ( 3/8")

But NO it looks good. with some taps and bangs on the hinges I'm sure Ill get a good fit.

The waist swage line is a little high according to the wing but what the hell. The wing needs extensive repair and won't fit or go back on as it came off for some reason.

Below is a shot of the wing I've moved on to repairing. The bottom half will be replaced with a new panel but the inside double wall strengtheners and mounting nuts need attention.

Also the front headlight orifice needs a new inner piece ( available for £4.40)

The rusty double wall panels have been treated with kurust already.

More soon folks ! I'm off to scoff the kids easter eggs.

Never in the field of human indifference has so much...

2007-03-28T12:21:00.000+01:00

Well...........I did do something that lifeless Saturday afternoon.After lunch I summoned much steely resolve to keep going and get the project going.
That's despite feeling tired and a little snuffly.
So, out with the mig and rest of tackle from MG bootspace.
Cutting cardboard templates, jigsaw buzzing, grinder scary grinding, clamps, drilling holes and finally welding. Hey,....it looks OK. My weldings getting better.
The end part of the sill needed closing in the rear wheel arch looking forward.
I've been putting it off for ages but now with mammoth effort and not a little skill..its DONE.
So just to prove it and the attempt at the rear wing attaching edge from last time
See below.............................

The left hand photo shows the cover plate welded over the sill end plate. Just like the perfect Mr Evans showed us. Even "puddle welded" onto the correct vertical flaps too.
The right hand photo probably looks worse that it actually is since I took the photo in the dark.
I think I said a few posts ago I'm resorting to using .................body filler......sin of sins
A few ( bugger, the formatting won't remove...please excuse the font and colour)
deft whacks with the planishing hammer and It'll be perfik.
I did suffer later on in the day a it was apparent I was suffering from a stonking cold so I laid low for a few hours. Addendum. lying alert. I did have the Mon and Tues off work due to sneezing and severe "man Flu".
Did manage to purchase a brand new door skin on good ole E-bay though, and quite near by.
Collected it last night and its loverly.......little things and all that smirks the wifey.
Had a good look at the sellers MG and its spurred me on a little. Thanks Andy.
Please don't laugh too much when you see my repairs......yours looks perfect .
So, since wifey's away again this weekend and if the weathers OK looks like I'll be repairing the door and fitting the door skin.............maybe.

Oh for the wings,........the wings of a ( MGB GT 1977 Passenger side rear) !

When enthusiasm flies........part II

2007-03-24T11:39:00.000Z

Yes its true, I'm almost becoming one of the fabled "unfinished Project for sale" mob.
The sad delusional mid life crisis type of bloke who thinks ***k it ! ,I don't need this aggro in my time of life.
After a long hard week on the road and more than one hotel I went to bed Friday night full of anticipation for the day ahead. Wifey was going out early off to London with her arty farty college chums, both kids had plans away from the house most of the day, so no ferrying around to do.
So, up early Saturday morning. Lovely cooked b'fast of cheesey beans, bacon and eggs and toast. Tidy up kitchen, fetch papers and chivvy kids into action.
It was only then I noticed the weather. Not raining for once, not even howling a gale windy so outside I went to remove the cover.
Brrrrrrrrrr its a little colder than it looks and with several icy gusts.
Looked at the rear sill/ inner/outer wheel arch that needs a finishing plate welding on to make the job complete.
Then It hit me............I just can't be bothered. Jigsaw cutting, hole drilling, grinding, fettling and welding....................................Its not quite mid-day so as a diversion I wrote this post in a fit of indifference. I guess I'm feeling rather tired from the travelling all week. Cambridge, Brighton, Havant, Portsmouth, Slough, Mansfield. Plus college piles on homework in a last ditch attempt to make sure they have been teaching us the correct topics at the correct level all year.
Not even a full Saturday of footy since England are playing Israel in the Euro qualifier.
So my moods rather depressed today.
Never mind, I'll do what I always do in a situation like this, .............nothing.
OK maybe I'll edit all the typos on the other posts then.
Hope the weather improves for tomorrow though.

Rust......a show and tell story

2007-03-18T17:32:00.000Z

The above shows a close up of the rear quarter. Mine has no rear wing attached at all. It was
cut off for some reason by the P.O ( Previous owner)
So you can clearly see the rust and flimsy edge at which the/a ( I ain't got a new wing yet) wing should be welded/glued/magically attracted/brazed/blu-tacked/gaffer taped/screwed/nuclear fusion.
I say this because I've taken council on how to fit the wing. One source says weld the part hidden by the chrome window surround from the outside, then weld the rear very difficult bit by trial and error.
Another source say send it to us and we'll do it for about £1000 per side, its very tricky you know and we are the **OC, we know best, we are smug and we'll charge you a fortune you skint and clueless little oik!
The absolute god and Mr wonderful, the saintly and sanguine Mark Evans ( and the bloke from Stoke) says glue them on and use the odd few tack welds at easy places.
Anyway........its still fairly irrelevant as I have no date or timescale to fix the wing on because..................................I don't have one !!!!!

In anticipation of this though I did set to work repairing this rusty edge. I have cut out three sections with trusty angle grinder. Made up one tricky repair section from flat sheet and welded another small part onto that. Please bear in mind I have now elected to use body filler to "shall we say".... enhance.... the appearance of the repairs.
I must stress that in no way is the structural integrity being compromised, only my delusional ideas of being a master M.I.G welder.

Next post will show my repairs of said area. Really, I did do it all myself. I must have, 'cause who else would own up to it ?

Bit short on witticisms this week. No one's fault really. I've been busy with work and college.
Kids same. Wifey also. Wintry weather and all that.

Back to Normal.....vehicle wise that is

2007-03-04T17:31:00.000Z

I forgot on the last post.

The Ford Ka has gone and I have my trusty old ( brand new )Avensis back.
I was just beginning to settle for the gross inconvenience of 2 doors, no remote locking, no hands free kit, no power on hills, no CD player, no satnav.
So Thursday I made it to the repairers late on. Waited say 10 mins for the said charriot to turn up. Lo and behold up it comes all shiney and newly resaprayed and valeted.
3 mins to load up with a salesman's lot and then get in and drive home.
Bliss......sheer bliss. How large the inside is. How quiet the engine, how powerful.
How clean and nice smelling. How comfortable. Music I can hear, a heater fan I can't.
It feels good. I'm not one for knocking cars especially my fave company car was a Ford but the Ford Ka is ( for high mileage driving ) ..................Pants.

All's well that ends well.......if it ever ends !

2007-03-04T17:01:00.000Z

Not much has happened lately MG wise. To be honest the weather has been rubbish and my work life has been a bit up and down to say the least.
My sales area has increased to cover at least half of the UK, the half being the eastern half including London (inner and outer) and a strange place I've never heard of called Kent.
So it looks as thought my future is secure at least for the next six months even if it means more nights away from home.
The photo shows the repairs to the base of the windscreen and A post top. This is a very complex area to repair made even more difficult by the fact that I had no idea how it should look. The side was a big hole before I started and the other door/side is even worse.
How lucky for me its covered up by the wing and windscreen rubber........ eventually.
Solved the issue of the laptop.........I've got a new one !!!!. well another one at least which was a colleagues who has now left ( Bye Keef with the lovely teef ) I have also inherited half of his sales area too. Cor blimey, talk about vultures hoverin'.
The camera issue with the faulty cable has also been solved. Wife'y and I went to the local Jessops where we bought the Nikon Camera. However neither of us could remember the Model. No problem said the smooth as silk salesman, what you want is a card reader, its the same price and has the advantage of....... blah blah blah. Sold to the clueless couple for £14.99.
But, it works and its great. Now we can organise all the things we've lost digitally somewhere.
Still desperately short of funds for the project, short of good weather at weekends,
short of patience with teenage son no 1, short of ideas, short of skill panel beating, short on love and affection..............phew!! nearly burst into emotional outpouring there.
Get back to reality man.
So, almost finished one side of the car, except door and rear wing ( which I think is on the birthday prezzie list to wifey ( She's asked where they are bought from, so lookin' good )
My time has been take up by MG dreaming. What colour should I have it resprayed.
I'm thinking maybe Carmine Red with Black interior. Or Black as is now. Trouble is Black shows up any and every imperfection. For sure I'll fit an Club spoiler. I'm even thinking of lowering the suspension ( remember its a rubber bumper model which rides 1 - 1/2" higher) and converting it to a chrome bumper model ( extra £400 quid or so )
Answers on a post card please.

Weld a go go.......and stop stop

2007-02-04T17:41:00.000Z

Look folks progress..............i think
The view shows the rotten windscreen surround in the corner. The corner is a polite way ( a British Leyland polite way) of understating the rust problem and location . Its several panels, all nicely curved and spot welded in strict order rendering them virtually un-restorable.
However, not to be put off ( well I had actually for the last six months at least ) I tackled it with the usual how the hell do i do that and where do I start ?
Well after about 3 hours looking and generally doing lots of butch posturing and tidying up I made a start. It is tough. I spent all day welding in tiny bits and grinding them down.
The last job of the day was to fill in a tiny pinhole left in the outer frame where I inserted a tiny patch. So thus the stop-stop. The welding just blew holes bigger and bigger till I had to insert another patch the size of a dinner plate ( exaggeration alert.....50p size really)
Still wazzed me off though last job of the day, getting dark and cold. Cut many pieces and welded/ground down/re-welded/ground/ last little weld to fill pinhole/re-patch, mark out,cut,grind,fit/weld grind.
So in the real world the twins continue to hate each other with a vengeance. Wifey's still head down into three art assignments each weekend and day light hour midweek.
I'm confused as ever with the political and financial manoeuvring at head office in Paris and Slough. Hee Hee......how I think its funny to mention these two cities in the same sentence.
Can I remind any one who reads this who is a sales man/woman who uses the motorway frequently,don't buy or hire/lease a ford Ka
Since my Toyota Avensis is in for re-shaping the courtesy car is absolutely PANTS.
Roll on mid Feb when work things get back to almost normal.
ADDENDUM..Wifey did not buy or get a new cable for the family camera. I used my company Agfa ( which is again PANTS) but at least its USB cable works, hence the rubbish photo.
Next job is to finish off repair with yet more tiny pieces welded in and yes.......................sin of all sins I'm going to use body filler to make it all smooth.
Then move to rear of car to tackle the outer of the inner wing, then the outer wing itself.
Then believe it or not the whole of one side is complete ( Body work wise that is) except for the door and front wing which need new skin and replacement lower patch respectively.
More soon.

And Boy did it bite my arse

2007-01-30T17:49:00.000Z

Greetings peeps................Have to sound cheery as I'm as pi***d off as hell.
The last post really did bite me on the a**e.
I nearly died a very flat squashy death. More of that later.
How's that for fate, Karma, bad vibes , ying yang, blasphemy or just plain tough titty.
There must be someone/thing/external joke player up/out/about playing some rather cruel and unfunny tricks with my life.
How I wish I'd not made the last post.............07 stinks.
I'm trying the same trick as the last post, irony and and a sense of belief in my own fate !!
Nothing much has happened MG wise.
Welded hole in floor near rear spring hanger.
Bought 2 tins of Grey etch primer.
Even collected MG roof section from Langley and deposited it at factory in Slough.
Its actually resting in a very rusty old garage out back of the toolroom, surrounded by
years of accumulated scrap machinery and 200 year old compressor.
The boss don't know its there yet. I'm have to tell him soon. Maybe he will guess when I sneak out of the next sales meeting at lunchtime and proceed to wield the grinder.
................................Oh whilst I remember......I was very nearly crushed to death by a HGV in the winds the other Thursday it's that 07 thing again !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes it was really that close. Here's how it happened.
As I was wendling my way from Scotland I stopped at Castleford services to re-route my way home. The winds were getting very strong and good old Sally Traffic was giving out a list as long as yer arm of roads and motorways closed. Most of them between me and home.
Off onto the A19 from the A1 south of said services and I met a long queue of stationary traffic.
The A19 at this point is actually a minor B road, but very long and straight and very exposed in flat countryside. After 30 minutes wait in long queue orange lights appeared from the distance. Two recovery trucks were attending to a HGV that had toppled over, about 300 yards ahead on my side of the road. So, to cut a long story short. they recovered the HGV ( well I say HGV, it was actually a big removals type van transporting mattresses )
The recovery truck with HGV in tow sped towards us at about 60 mph.
Then Sh***********************t It started to fall over about 10 yards in front of me.
Its back end hit the transit van in front of me, it kept falling and I ducked down and sideways.
Smash, boom, thud, thwack. It hit me on the windscreen pillar, windscreen, roof, door front & back and bootlid.
It then went on to hit the transit van behind me ( On the roof only) and came to a standstill at 45 degrees to the HGV behind that van.
Bear in mind we were all stationary waiting for the go-ahead from somewhere down the road.
I think if I'd not been between two transit vans ( hi line ones at that) 07 would have been a very very bad year for at least three more people.
I dare not tempt fate again...so I'll sign off with a note of pessimism tha......

Hold on did...... I get my sums wrong? is it odds that are bad for me ? maybe evens then ?
or are they good. Maybe at the autumnal equinox it changes expotentially ?
There job done Not called "Captain chaos" for nothing.
I'll keep hangin in there, at least till the jobs done anyway. ( go away italics....please)
I do promise to post more often though...and if said female gets her finger out even post pictures.

See yer soon............p.s keep the messages coming I need cheering up !

Happy New Year....................Its an odd one

2007-01-07T14:55:00.000Z

Happy new year to all my fans and avid followers of nothing in particular.
The odd bit refers to the year number 07.
Traditionally for us ( me actually) odd number years seem to treat me better than even ones.

Before I get into this too deep.

Congratulations Hayley and Matt...........A lovely new little girl Daisy

So the year dawns bright and new, if not a little windy and wet.
Christmas was good, the house full of food and booze, family and friends, mess and arguments, indigestion and late rising, shopping and spending.
So fairly normal then.
I did get several invites to parties over the festivities which were all very good. So good in fact that i even turned one down, very near home and on a Saturday night. Wifey and daughter went though and enjoyed it immensely.
One sad note was that the rear wing never appeared as a Christmas present though.
However, a fantastic Red MG Keyfob did appear ( thanks Han) and a rather expensive looking travel bag with subtle embroidered MG logo on the side.
The MG has been rather neglected of late since the fitting of the sill section.
As you may be aware of the sill fit is not actually perfect. I think the gap is too large.
I've spent a lot of time thinking about this as a precursor to know what to do next.
Now I'm of the opinion that the door needs better alignment. Its been on and off many times and is a swine to tighten up.
The sill gap is probably 8-10 mm when it should be 3-5mm. The problem is twofold -:
The sill will not move up any higher as the A post prevents this, it and has to be welded together to give some rigidity.
The door catch at the B post seems very high as the door has to be lifted to be closed.
Not having the rear wing in position to give the B post some strength don't help.

So the upshot is I will reposition the door by dropping whole door down approx 5mm.
Re align the door catch on the B post, hopefully it will drop down enough.

This is all better done once I have a new rear wing welded in position ( Hope wifey's reading)
Before this though, the inner/outer wheel arch must be completed.
I have started this and welded the inner strengthener plate onto the end of the open ended sills. The wheel arch sections are welded on top of this to align with the outer wing wheel arch.
So, cash needed for the inner wheel arch section/s. Luckily repair panels and not the whole arch can be purchased from MGBhive/MGOC. The rear wing bit is about £57 and not £350 as first thought. .......................... I told you 07 is lucky for me.

As I started to say for me and the family odd numbered years seem to be very good. Or is it that the even number years have always been bad.
I broke my leg in 04........................................Bad
Born in 57..........................................................Good
Heart attack in 96.............................................Bad
Married in 89.....................................................Good...........( brains with tact)
Redundant in 2002............................................Bad
6 month holiday/work in USA in 2001..........Good
Twins born in 96..................................................Good at first, but 13 years later maybe bad!!

Anyway, you get the picture. 2007 good year. Hope this statement don't come back to bite me on the ar**.

Back to the resto. Yesterday I welded a small repair patch in the front wing/ bonnet gutter.
Re-welded the sill in places. Sprayed primer on all the other sill areas that were showing surface rust from welding.
Noticed the windscreen bottom/rubber gutter rust hole that's going to be a dogs d*** to cut out and repair. Looked into hole in passenger rear floor. Stood around lots and pondered.

Other breaking news is I still have to collect the roof section from a nice chap in Slough.
I turned up 3 weeks ago and for some strange reason thought it might fit into the rep mobile.
Not a hope. Not even into an estate car. So I have to borrow estate car with roof bars to transport it to works in Slough for storage/chopping up. This will be done next sales meeting early Jan. Promise Chris. Thanks for your patience.

Must concentrate on removing and storing engine/ancillary parts till cash flows.
See you all soon. P.S Wifey's not yet replaced camera cable so no pictures as yet.

Not just a metaphoric gap ............?

2006-11-26T17:13:00.000Z

How profound of of me. Sometimes I amaze myself and other people too !.
The gap in question refers to two things. Firstly the blog and photographs out of synch and the gaps in the restoration story.
The second is the gap in the sill end plate now I've attached the outer cover sill.
As you are all aware my laptop has been giving me grief ( a lot actually) as the photographs would not download, the Bloggers website just froze usually threequarters of the way down a newly created post. Or the laptop just switched itself off without rhyme or reason.
Good news. After a bit of wheeling and dealing I'm ( we also, as the whole family benefits)
the proud owner of a BT home hub. This means the ancient but reliable PC can also be connected to the broadband. The Laptop issue will have to be resolved at work after the crisis of new management is primed.
It transpires the cable of the Nikon camera is to blame for the photo errors.
It fried the laptop and the PC's USB connections. Repaired for £45 quid and now we're cookin on gas as they say.
Back to the restoration though.
The castle rail sill is on. Welded like no other. Gone a bit overboard actually but what the hell.
Spent ages fettling the inner membrane sill and drilling about 30 five mm holes for plug welds.
The plug welds were a swine. It took me about seven weak and crap welds before I realised
that maybe eight mm holes are better. Typical fufferfour. Do the job again but this time much better. Spent even longer offering up the outer sill after hours grinding down all the plug and seam welds done. All this took place throughout October when the weather was good each weekend. Now I'm rushing a little to get the sill complete before the rain starts every weekend. But, the cover sill was welded on, on the top seam last week, and today I completed the rest of the welding on the sill. I even repaired the "A" Post hole with a nicely fitting patch. The sill end cover was welded on at the rear.

To keep it interesting here is a picture of the sill during a trial fit.

NOTE.... the hi-tech shovel holding the outer sill and wing bottom in place!!!!.................

Well it was the only thing that fitted at the time.

Pity the gap under the door though. Its about eight to ten mm. There was no way it could be any less. I'm hoping the door ( which has been on and off several times) is aligned poorly.
If not another job for the welder when its doorskin time. Once everloving wifey has purchased said cable for the ( her ) Camera I'll post the photo's of my handiwork so far.
The next jobs are :- Hole in floor near spring hanger. Cut away. grind. fit patch and weld.
Gutter section on front wing/bonnet side gutter. same as above.
Then yipee.........................weld or glue on rear outer wing ( wifey's buying it me for christmas)
Be patient folks......................................its getting there.