So.............still at it and the weather has been on my side for weeks. As has the cash and time, albeit slow and frustrating.
Firstly I have a new job. Same place just down the corridor, but not half as demanding physically, strict 9-5 ( or 8-4) with every weekend off. Some on calls to do but that's in a month or two,s time.
Cash came by as my request for birthday cash not presents. That,s enabled me to buy a Brake master cylinder & RH indicator stalk assembly that fell apart and broke during dis-assembly. The replacement is also broken straight from the packet .!!! but thats for another time.
Last time saw me scratching my head as to why, after the engine bay tidy up of the wiring it wouldn't start. That was the back end of last year so I just left it expecting some wiring Issues/shorts/loose wires etc.
Back to the story. Left it last winter with no starting possible. Decided to re-furb the Brake master cylinder. Well, what a faff trying to work out the orientation of both seals. To cut a long story short the refurb didn't work. I even managed to chip a large lump off the Master cylinder casting. That sealed it a New Master cylinder was required.
Fast forward to last few weeks. New master cylinder purchased and fitted promptly. Trouble is though none of the family want to assist with the bleeding. Son #1/ twin 1 did a little. Has a had his ACL repaired so was not that much help. Nevertheless I managed to get some firm pressure without leaks so, so far so good.
Trouble was the car wouldn't budge. In order to fire it up I have to push it 2 metres up the driveway so I can open the large gates and get a car close enough to use the jump leads. Even with four people pushing it was going nowhere. Then a usual Fufferfour brainwave. The brake are jammed on. Simple fix........until I had a thought.
It must be several years ago I replaced the brake discs, pistons, pads and seals. The discs had mild surface rust on them. Wire brushed em and tried to push.......no chance.
So, common sense prevailed . I removed the outer drivers side brake pad with some effort.
Bingo the car would move. .......................Lets get this Engine started. I'd had all winter to think about why It wouldn't start and was sure I'd resolve it by checking all the earths and connections. Even adding an extra earth strap from Block to body.
After much revving of my donor car and lots of burps and pops from the exhaust I had to have a rethink.
The following week after some Interweb searching regarding firing order, plug gaps and distributor lead positions I was still at a loss.
Now let me tell you............Don't believe everything posted on these here web forums. Some of it is downright weird. Anyways in a lull in proceedings at work I found a picture ontweb of the distributor leads and their respective plug positions.
1 o'clock to plug No1.......1-3-4-2 anti=clockwise on Dizzy.
That's just how mine were though ???? Damn.
From all the popping and burping at the exhaust end methinks maybe not correct !!
Wait a minute. My distributor lead was not at 1 o'clock but 12 o'clock. I assumed this being the nearest must be the correct one.
So took the bull by the horns and moved all the leads 1 place clockwise. ( 3 o'clock to cylinder 1)
Lo and behold started easy peasy right on the button. Runs a bit rough as expected after such a lay up, but getting a good 60/70 psi oil pressure.
Next episode Bleeding Clutch...........soon, promise.
Son even filmed for Facebook the eventual firing up below.
https://www.facebook.com/paul.liles/videos/10156387480974621/
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