Wednesday, April 19, 2023

Seat shennanigins and fuel faffs

 So spring has sprung and the long awaited summer heatwave promised never happened, but we did have fair weather, enough to get the MG fever going again.

All winter my aim was to start on getting the fuel pump fitted, hoses connected properly then test the pump and maybe get some fuel forced along the fuel line.

Closely followed by bleeding the brakes. After early last year I discovered the calipers were upside down and on the wrong sides. No wonder I never managed so much as a slightly firm pedal, just a soft pedal with a strange " fart" sound at the bottom of the travel. 

Since I finished the seats and underfelt ( very soft neoprene/ rubber that stuck down very well ) fitting of the seat was to be the first job, as well as fitting some old carpet from recent redecorate of sons room.

I wish now I hadn't bothered. The carpet was losing its underfelt in a mass of powdery dust and was a swine to cut. But at least it is protecting it for when I finish off the dash switches and heater pipes.


The fitting of the seats was next. I heard they can be fiddly so I was prepared for the challenge.

And what a challenge it was. 

One seat has four parts which all need aligning so the 5/16" bolts can be fitted in from above. A long steel runner each side underneath, which is fitted to the seat runner by a small lip about 3mm/ 1/8" deep.

Only the front two or rear two can be fitted then the seat moved fully forward ( or back) to fit the last two

It has to be temporarily fixed to the seat runner either sticking out fwds or rearwards so the bolt holes  are 

visible when placing the seat. There lies the problem. The lower loose runner is difficult the attatch and keep vertical on the seat underside and get the base somewhere near the holes.

The other component is the wooden runner that sits under the lower rail. It has two large holes about 25mm/  1" dia with thick 1" dia washers. This has to line up with the holes in the floor, as well as line up with the lower runner.

Then the hole in the runner, with nut inserted has to be " get attable" with a ratchet.

An added complication was that with pliable underfelt and crappy stiff as hardboard scrap carpet the bolt was about 1/4" too short to engage with the cabin floor.

I overcame that by cutting a long square slot in the carpet, another messy faff, then removing some underfelt.

However, I'd used sellotape ( yes yes I know) to hold top and bottom runners in place but it kept letting the lower runner either slide forwards or collapse sideways out of the seat channel.

Bear in mind you have to do both seat sides at the same time, get them the same amount sticking out then align over the runner hole, washer and tapped hole in floor. I must have tried about six or seven times with the seat far forward and doing the rear pair. Trouble was the " new" seat was fat and the tunnel was fat so I moved on to fitting the front pair. This time I used some electrical tape tied to the runners.

The seat would just not go back far enough. The tilting mechanism just kept hitting the outer sill.

By this time I'd been on the job about 5 1/2" hours so I decided to call it a day as I was thoroughly pissed off and hungry.

After dinner I did a quick Google photo search and saw to my horror

I WAS FITTING THE WRONG SIDE SEAT.....ffs

The following day dawned clear and bright. I did the job in 35 minutes ( after swapping over the seats)

Onto the fuel stuff. The hoses I decided were on their unions far enough. Connected the battery charger and tested the pump with the ignition on, bingo !. A nice little chatter from the rear.

I popped a container on the fuel pipe under the bonnet in place of the trusty Gatorade fuel tank and lo


Green fuel ?.  Quickly filled the tank with 5 litres of fuel, fitted the fat fuel filler hose and re tested. Result.

However, I couldn't' find the fuel filter. Its been hanging round the engine bay for about 6 years, maybe. Or I could have stored it somewhere safe, and secret. No matter, onto the brakes.

I had purchased a vaccuum bleeder kit from amazon for the princely sum of £13.25. This was forced on me due to the fact no one in the family would assist me for the normal method.

It worked a treat. Pedal firm as f@+>k. I was convinced the master cylinder or servo was causing the fart, but no all is silent. 

A few other little jobs to finish before I give it a run on the cul de sac such as:-

Attatch choke cable wire and fit to dash. I did fit another bike cable to the knob end but it was too short so I'll have to buy one and re-weld. How is it routed through the dash though ?

Clean up and paint boot lock mechanism, the fit and test.

Ditto bonnet hinge and latch.

The maybe just maybe a drive...............it'll have been about 14 years + since it last moved under its own steam. 

See you all soon.









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