When cash is not enough

So, how to explain the title then ?
Last post saw me list a long long list of stuff I needed to buy to make some progress. Well now I've been paid (twice) I did spend some hard earned cash on the following :-
... New Rear Brake pads, pins, clips etc
... One ( Yes, one) brake caliper cylinder. More of this later.
... Brake fluid ( 5 ltrs) a little overkill on volume, but again more on that later.
... Rear brake piston seal kit/s, springs and pins.
... Rear 1-5/16" sockett (for rear centre nut)
... Pair of rear hub to axle seals.

That little lot came to over £95. I felt guilty over the amount, however it was needed and I'd earned the right spend some cash after a good few frugal winter months.

Initially all went well. The rear oil seal hub to axle was easier than expected courtesy of a lump hammer and flat softwood timber.
The first problem was the slight "clunk" from the axle when turning the wheel in either direction. I know all MG's have this but how much is acceptable ? At the worse its the drive shaft splines f***ed. At best the diff pinions oil seats have disintegrated. I'm still annoyed I did not discover/address this issue last summer when all the rear axle was removed and re-painted together with the suspension renewal/lowering.
Ho hum. I decided its best to worry about this issue when the car is up and running, after all I'd got parts to fit.

Some good news was that in the box of parts that arrived was a complete rear brake cylinder. I didn't order it but was charged for it so I decided to leave it for now and get on with both cylinder refurbs. The a real conundrum started. Once I'd removed the RH cylinder from the back plate how the hell do I get the main plunger out. Moreover, it was rusted solid in there and was immovable. I decided to fit the new one, hoping the other side was not as bad. Fortunately it wasn't, so a good soaking in penetrating fluid and a few taps with trusty lump hammer and wood saw the job done, refitted to back plate, springs and old shoes (old but with lots of facing material on them) fitted and ready for action. The handbrake cable was a challenge to re-fit at the final side, which required some clever leverage with a set of water pump pliers and five pairs of hands,  but on other job done. Even managed to set the shoes to grip with the handbrake after slight adjustment.

I'm writing this on Thursday teatime ( Prior to Good Friday) and just popped out for a smoke to ponder on the Issues I'm about to write of, when looking down at the floor near the MG I see a small washer. On inspection it turns out to be a shim washer........and I know where from !!!! Please bear with me and as I'm getting a little ahead with this welcome discovery and diversion. But it could be IMPORTANT to my woes !

Have to go now as a bottle of whisky is calling after the end of a good few days on my first night shift rota. TBC.

So to continue.
I was feeling rather smug with myself after fitting most of the brake parts and having a copious supply of brake fluid. So all that remained was to fit the front calliper seals and pistons, fit whole lot to car, fill up with said fluids, bleed and another milestone reached.
Second problem.
I'd bought only one new front brake piston as it had rusted solid in situ and took some ingenuity to removed (see earlier post). The other three pistons were deemed o.k to re-use in the name of economy and originality. But where were they ?  I hunted high and low, in and out, shed and desk drawer but nowhere could they be located. After a lot of thinking and more hunting I decided I must have thrown them away. I don't remember the decision but in hindsight I must have done, as it could be deemed foolhardy not to replace a complete set. So another job has to be shelved and 3 more pistons ordered.

What next then ?  I'll do the clutch. Should be easy peasy. fill up, bleed and hey Ho, a working clutch. Wrong, very wrong.
The pedal travel was very easy and soft even with the bleed nipple open fully. I decided to remove the slave cylinder to inspect it. What a sad sight. Its piston ( without protective rubber boot, I presume long since disintegrated) was also rusted solid and was never going anywhere, in or out. It looked impossible to pull out,being half in, half out of the bore with nowhere to grip onto to pull. After a lot of failed attempts at grippy things, small screwdrivers and penetrating fluid I had to resort to some bodging. That's after I'd already looked on line at the cost of a new unit ( how much !).
I drilled a M7 hole in the end of the piston and tapped it M8. Using a long-ish M8 bolt, large washer and the next door neighbours G clamp and a large adjustable spanner it was screwed out ala piston removal for front cylinder. Why a G clamp you might ask ?
Third problem
Well the trusty workmates sad and knackered makeshift jaws had truly given up the ghost, hence begging a G clamp to grip it whilst screwing out. Anyways it did it after a lot of swearing. Trouble was the cylinder piston now had a M8 shaped tapped hole through its centre. Next came a spot of Lostsock ingenuity again. I inserted M8 screw the other way covered in epoxy glue, just enough to allow the clutch lever rod to seat in the bottom. Waited till the epoxy had set and sliced off the back ( The inside part of the piston) with the trust scary grinder with thin cutting disc. It worked a treat and was very neat. I'm a poet but don't know it.
The innards of the slave cylinder were very black and cruddy but the seals were good after a thorough clean and flush out. Unfortunately an new rubber boot is not available for the clutch end so I fitted it anyway and got ready to bleed.
Fourth problem
Bleedings not easy. Especially when you have no willing assistant. Yes, the entire Lostsock came to help, but got fed up and abandoned me after 5 minuted each. The piston in the slave cylinder did not appear to move much, and only a dribble of fluid came out of the bleed hole, plus the pedal was very very soft. I decided to investigate the clutch master cylinder. Top bolt easy to undo, bottom bolt IMPOSSIBLE !. there is not enough room to swing a spanner or get access to the bolt head. Again BBS forum came to the rescue. A universal joint is required, extension and attack it from the inside dash compartment. For me easy as the dash is out . Bought and 250mm extension, ground a 3/8" square on the end of my 250mm universal joint and bingo. God it was difficult though. Only half, nay 1/4 of a flat turn possible. But after about an hour out it came. Disassembled easy enough and ordered a new seal kit ( along with the 3 pistons for front callipers).

Its at this point things are a little hazy. The seal kit was fitted. Its not easy and I had an extra seal ?
Two tapered seals were obvious enough although a little difficult to fit but where did the third small "cap like" seal fit ? Over the end of the spring ?. I fitted it there and tried again. See Lostsock struggle to fit the bolt. An hour later it was back in place. An hour later saw the clutch pedal stay down when depressed. That's just how I felt, depressed. I removed the master cylinder again, disassembled and removed the "cap" seal. Refitted ( another 45 mins this time) and cajoled son No 1 to help with the bleeding. progress at last, a flow was happening at the bleed nipple.
Fifth Problem
The pedal (and master cylinder piston)  kept sticking. My only option was to remove the nut and union at the back of the assembly and use a long thin Allen key to push the piston back. However after two days of constant backache, frustration and bewilderment I gave up. Where, if at all should the "cap" seal go ?

Sixth problem
I'll bleed the brakes then. It cant be that difficult. I started on the Rear LH bleed nipple. This time with some co-operation from Son No 1. Nothing !! Not even a dribble. Only  bubbling from within the brake reservoir on pedal upstroke. Tried other three nipples, same thing. Gave up to ponder my fate and hope new master cylinders are not required.

Seventh problem
On poking around the engine bay I noticed that 2 core plugs are leaking. Damn. Fortunately they are easily accessible near the oil filter and alternator. Its just another woe to add to a frustrating restoration and when I thought money was the answer to progress.

So, halfway through writing this I found the shim washer outside. Trouble is I can't remember where its from, Clutch slave or master cylinder. I do think it will solve a problem, which problem though. Should I move on to the bodywork for a while ?

Workwise, I've finished my 6 week induction period and am on the rota proper. This has already seen me do a 2 day night shift stint and a Saturday (Very hard work, remind me not to work this day in future) But it does mean I will get occasional daylight hours at home and if I have the motivation sort out the damn car. Lets have some encouragement from yer then...........please ! 

At the ready

Sorry for not posting sooner. Its the longest I've gone without an update or progress report. An educated meander at previous years post's sees the same thing. Its the weather y'know.
I think I've changed my wish list from

# 1      Garage

to

#1     Heated Garage

Fortunately this year so far has not seen any snow, however there has been Wind, lots of it. I must have been to re-arrange the mishmash of poly covers on the car several times a day but now I've given up. Its waterproof ( I think) and enjoys flapping aimlessly and making an annoying flappy noise with each gust.

So what are the plans for the MG then ?
Since I now have a job, but haven't started yet, real progress is at least 3 months away when paid, debts and x-mas paid off and finances back on track.
I did purchase a pair of rear axle/hub oil seals early Dec which were going cheap on e-bay but not fitted them yet. The main reason being my lack of 1"5/16 socket for the rear wheel nut. Why did BL make the front and rear different sizes ?. Several trawls round my local Thursday flea market ( always good for second hand tools and old engineering stuff) has proved fruitless.So no progress on the seal replacement. Apart from which as I said earlier, the weathers been crap. I also have ( by way of x-mas prezzie from wifey) a pair of front bumper Irons ( yes...e-bay again, bargain at £5) to fit.

Enough chitter chatter, here's a list of the jobs to do, not necessarily in this order.

1/.   Re-fit oil cooler hose and route/ fix permanently (or as permanent enough to stop another disaster)

2/.   Flush Radiator and heater to cure running hot issue

3/.   Top up with oil and water

4/.   Fill clutch reservoir and bleed

5/.   Replace front brake cylinders and seals, buy pads/pins/ fluid, fit  and test.

6/.   Get to bottom of why filling stations air lines valve connector won't fill my tyres/valve.

7/.   Buy 1"5/16 socket...........Maybe. Then replace rear oil seals

8/.  Remove rear back plate and refurbish brake cylinder with new seal kit/s

9/.   Run engine and check engine hot running/water oil mixing in rocker box.

10/.   Fill brake system, bleed and test ..see 6/. ( methinks scary grinder had "dabbed" valve !!)

11/.   Finish bodywork and fit interior

12/.   Re-spray, MOT, Insure and off I go    


O.K maybe 11/. and 12/. may have been simplified somewhat (yes... a lot) but 1/. to 10/. is enough to see me through till early summer, if the weather is dry and wind free. A very big if for UK residents.
If things go well work wise and I can get a grip with the bodywork fiddly bits then maybe just maybe this year will see the car on the road and finished ( Is it ever "finished" ?)

Oh and just as a passing  note, totally unrelated, here's me graduating last week. Just to prove I do finish some things.

Whilst its quiet

Yes. I know I've had an annoying little issue with the MG ring hijacking my site, but I think I've cured it now.
So, since no-one has made any comments for ages a few words of encouragement would not go amiss, so please add comments just to let me know there are people out there in cyberspace reading. Donations of hard cash are also gratefully accepted, after all the kids need new shoes.

spring thing and more work

Well, the front suspension is finally finished, discs purchased and fitted and the car lowered to the ground at long last.
The fitting of the disc was easier than I thought. I did have reservations regarding the hub to disc bolts. They were a swine to remove. I had to drill the bolts out since the back face did not allow for a spanner or my socket access. In the end I found a long forgotten box spanner of 14 mm that did the job just fine with accompanying 1/2" socket.
Also the oil seal to hub was tricky to remove but replaced with a brand new pair, using a nice new flat section of 1" x 3"x 6" timber, liberal grease and lump hammer.

The only blot on the landscape was the final ride height. It looks too high, even thought I've replaced the spring with one over 1-1/2" shorter.
Also, since the two wheels/tyres had been used as makeweights for the car cover, when fitted and lowered back to earth one was flat as a fart.
That's when the faffing started.
I visited three filling stations ( all with the same type of inflator) only to find out the business end of the inflator does not fit my valve. Strange that, since I've inflated them before ( albeit years ago) and did not have an Issue.
The economy run continues so I've decided to replace only one brake cylinder but both side's caliper seals in full, re-use the existing hoses and buy standard pads,clips and re-use the rear brake shoes.
I've even fitted the bump strap bolts since I can now jack up the rear end.

Son also helped me push the car to turn it round on the drive ( again).
After inspecting the RH rear hub/back plate I discovered the back plate was slightly oily/cruddy and some slight play in the drive/hub/spline. I'll do what I normally do for this rather expensive repair, Ignore it for now. At the least it is just pinion crown wheel spacer wear and worse half shaft spline wear with weeping oil seal. Thank god for the wonderful John Twist of University motors. I urge you all to visit youtube to see his wisdom and  educational dedication to the marque for would be restorers.

So next on the list is more sanding (wether [ and weather] permitting) since I should buy the caliper and pads plus fluid ,but that looks like its going to be a Christmas present  due to some ongoing financial embarrassment ( No job as of yet).

Above  is the RH hub. Sorry as it a little blurred ( I was cold, wet and fed up )